86 TRX350A Restoration - Page 8 - Honda ATV Forum
Honda FourTrax Discussions for the FourTrax Rincon, Foreman, Rancher, Recon

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post #71 of 80 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Retro
Where is the exciter coil? When i see an 86 stator am I looking for a module attached to the Bl/R? Are they replaceable or do you have to buy another stator?

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post #72 of 80 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 03:56 PM
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Thanks Retro
Where is the exciter coil? When i see an 86 stator am I looking for a module attached to the Bl/R? Are they replaceable or do you have to buy another stator?
the exciter coil is made into the stator, if the wrong stator is in the motor ?, then the PO was trying to run it in ac mode would be my guess.
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post #73 of 80 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 09:22 PM
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Yep, OEM exciter windings are integrated into the stator alongside the 3-phase alternator windings. The alternator outputs are three yellow wires. The exciter output is generally a Black/red wire on most Honda AC-CDI systems. My guess...? the PO probably swapped in a china stator, or snipped that wire when he cobbled in the china DC-CDI. You'll know once you remove it what happened.
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post #74 of 80 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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I will double check the readings on these wires tomorrow. 3 Y going to the reg/rec and a Bu/Y, Gr/W and a Yellow going into main harness (CDI)

there’s definitely no Bl/R coming out of the stator but in its place that 4th Yellow wire. The Bl/R wire to the CDI is capped but not clipped.
Like purposely left discoed.

Man i learnt sumpin today my brain is full
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post #75 of 80 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 10:41 PM
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Could that 4th yellow be the exciter wire color in china..? LOL :-)

You could measure voltage outputs of each of those yellows if you have a peak voltage adapter and a decent multimeter, to learn if one of them is anywhere near to 100 volts AC at cranking speed.

Anyway, there should be 6 wires in an 86/87 Fourtrax OEM stator harness. The pulse gen wire should be Blue/yellow, the ground should be Green/white, the exciter should be Black/red, with three alternator Yellows.
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post #76 of 80 (permalink) Old 05-13-2019, 11:05 PM
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Sorry 'bout all this thread pollution Goober... but figured I'd share the safety feature mentioned earlier that Honda used on the early Fourtrax models. In the pic, see that Black/yellow wire coming from the CDI and going to both; the ignition coil primary, and the fuel pump relay..?

The fuel pump relay cuts power to the fuel pump in event the motor stops for any reason. The fuel pump cannot start until the motor is being cranked or kicked over while the ignition switch and kill switch are both in run position. So what you observed with your fuel pump was normal since the ignition is not yet functional.
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post #77 of 80 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 06:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Could that 4th yellow be the exciter wire color in china..? LOL :-)

You could measure voltage outputs of each of those yellows if you have a peak voltage adapter and a decent multimeter, to learn if one of them is anywhere near to 100 volts AC at cranking speed.

Anyway, there should be 6 wires in an 86/87 Fourtrax OEM stator harness. The pulse gen wire should be Blue/yellow, the ground should be Green/white, the exciter should be Black/red, with three alternator Yellows.
that’s a great thot, and why i need to recheck. If i can get the right resistance reading off that Y and Gr/W, then I’ll try hooking it up. More tonight
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post #78 of 80 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 06:32 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry 'bout all this thread pollution Goober... but figured I'd share the safety feature mentioned earlier that Honda used on the early Fourtrax models. In the pic, see that Black/yellow wire coming from the CDI and going to both; the ignition coil primary, and the fuel pump relay..?

The fuel pump relay cuts power to the fuel pump in event the motor stops for any reason. The fuel pump cannot start until the motor is being cranked or kicked over while the ignition switch and kill switch are both in run position. So what you observed with your fuel pump was normal since the ignition is not yet functional.
Thanks no this is great stuff—the reason I bought this project was to learn the hard stuff! makes for perfect understanding now why the fuel pumps don’t run until the engine rotates.
If y’all hadn’t commented then I probably wouldn’t have realized that I performed the resistance checks incorrectly—never checked for resistance between Y and Gr/W.

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post #79 of 80 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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There’s definitely no evidence of an exciter coil on this stator, so I’ll look for one but I’m not in a hurry. Got some honeydews.

Found a great wire repair solution that eliminates using butt splices. Today I bought a new 25 Watt soldering iron and clear heat shrink.

I repaired the connectors on the gear position switch subharness! Took some wires, pins and the rubber insulators from a salvaged ignition switch assembly. Soldered the new wires into the pin and socket tip— used clear heat shrink to cover the splice. Now the repair isn’t covered with black tape or heat shrink😎

Also used black heat shrink to repair the damaged rubber insulators
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post #80 of 80 (permalink) Old Today, 08:51 AM
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Solder and heat shrink tubing is the only way to go. Butt splice connectors can suck a butt.
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