86 TRX350A Restoration - Page 5 - Honda ATV Forum
Honda FourTrax Discussions for the FourTrax Rincon, Foreman, Rancher, Recon

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post #41 of 80 (permalink) Old 04-25-2019, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Duck0fDeath View Post
I picked that blue bike up on Saturday. Dude swapped wheels and tires around before I showed up. It's got four front wheels. I can't even get a wrench on the shock bolts with the wheels on in back Thing was armored out with steel mesh lined racks and rear fender guards that ran down to the floorboards and welded up. I spent two nights cutting them off the stock racks.
That rear rack configuration is something else!!
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post #42 of 80 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Replaced the ignition, dash display sub harnesses, headlight bracket, handlebar and peeled back the master switch harness. Had to drill out and tap the left brake perch.

The neutral light used to be on constantly, but now it’s off and I think there’s a problem with the used display harness—the light was broken but still doesn’t work.

The main harness is mouse chewed in several places so i slaved in a used main harness that i rewrapped. No change.

PROBLEM the quad thinks it’s in neutral; i think it’s a bad master switch. It’s got a knockoff CDI too but I replaced it with an OEM CDI no change.
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post #43 of 80 (permalink) Old 04-27-2019, 09:58 PM
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Does the used dash lights harness still have the diode in it? Sometimes folks cut that diode out and twist the two wires together.
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post #44 of 80 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 08:07 AM Thread Starter
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Fixed it!

@retro checked harness diode and it was there; Neutral socket very corroded so cleaned and got steady N light.

Ok then swapped N and R leads and R light operated as the N circuit should but then had a steady R light. So i knew N circuit switch was good.

Remembering it had a knockoff CDI, I installed my reserve OEM CDI and now ignition circuit is all good. Must be a CDI designed for a Foreman

Time to get that rust reformer solution @GirlsRideToo recommended.
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post #45 of 80 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 08:48 AM
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like I said, and always say, the 1986 trx350 fourtrax is a breed of its own !!. you can't use many parts from any other old school trx350 on them, they just want 1986 parts...lol. anywayyyyyy..looking great goober !!.
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post #46 of 80 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Shadetree i picked up those little hacks from discussions here.

My starter switch wouldn’t switch from run to off so i took it apart. Besides a bunch of web worm carcasses in the switch housing, the kill switch musta been damaged during the PO’s rollover.

It is a little plastic box with a protective cover. Inside is the switch mechanism–it has a spring and a metal ball that contacts a detent. Very similar to the safety switch on a Mossberg 500 shotgun. I cleaned and lubed the switch and in process broke the wires.

Here’s a pic of me resoldering the contacts and rewrapping the harness.
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post #47 of 80 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 10:47 PM
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Is that a Cobra muffler I see on there? Got plans to refinish it? Rust-oleum 2000 degree rattle cans, black n' clear?
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post #48 of 80 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks I’ll do that @retro,

I have the 500 degree–they make 2000 degree paint?

Need to do the pipes and muffler—slready broke the pipe nuts loose
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post #49 of 80 (permalink) Old 04-28-2019, 11:13 PM
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Yep, they make black, red, silver, maybe other colors too, in 2000 degree. They make a clear coat 2000 degree too, I got my cans from walmart. I used the black n' clear coat on my Rancher header pipe and header heat shield. And silver 'n clear on my muffler and its heat shield. Directions are on the cans... ya gotta let 'em cure overnight after all the coats are on 'em, then heat the parts in an oven to 250 degrees for 30 minutes and allow them to cool for 30 minutes. Repeat that at 400 degrees. Finally repeat that heating/cooling cycle at 600 degrees. I was able to hang my parts from an oven rack placed at the top of the oven using wire through the bolt holes to keep parts from touching the oven interior. If ya don't hang 'em the finish will stick to the oven cause it melts (and self-levels a bit) when it gets hot. I put them on the bike today, but I haven't started the motor yet to see if they are gonna hold up to that intense header pipe heat. Last year I used 1200 degree paint with 2000 degree clear on them and the 1200 degree stuff boiled & bubbled right back off! LOL

I'll let ya know how it goes after I get enough pieces back on the bike to run it for a while.
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post #50 of 80 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 06:56 AM Thread Starter
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Sounds good I’ll try it.

BTW I didn’t fix the switch. I had it working when i put it together. The ball or mechanism in the housing must be loose because while it’s better than it was it won’t move completely to off position. Well I learned something and the quad should run.

I’ll look for a cut up switch—i can use the kill module out if it
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