86 TRX350 Fuel Tank Borescope - Honda ATV Forum
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-29-2018, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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86 TRX350 Fuel Tank Borescope

Hi bought a cheepy borescope for $20 about 2 years ago—I scratched the lens pretty bad, but it works better than nuttin

The attached pix are from an ‘86 TRX350 tank—showing the interior plumbing and the screens built onto them. First is the reserve pipe with the drain bolt removed; 2nd is the reserve intake screen 3rd is the plumbing that attaches to the petcock 4th is the bottom of the tank where water collected 5th shows the rust line.
Tank is not terribly rusty—you can see the some of the rust is flaking off in pretty thin pieces. I will use a vinegar soak and a pound of steel BBs to gently knock the rust off. Pics demonstrate the value of draining the tank annually and keeping it full to prevent condensation. Also important to use a flexible long handled small diameter bore brush to gently remove scale from the plumbing

The reason I use BBs is that they won’t damage the intake screens like bolts and other stuff people want to use. Even the polymer coatings that might work in straight draining tank might clog up these screens.

I checked the tank I cleaned two years ago—couldn’t take pics cuz the tank was full. I’ll drain it down maybe this weekend and show how well the soak worked.
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Last edited by Goober; 10-29-2018 at 09:42 PM.
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-30-2018, 04:02 AM
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I never have noticed that screen in any of these models I have worked on ?, maybe they were removed ?..lol. I am just glad I got a plastic tank..no more rust !..lol. I am sure the pipes inside this plastic tank will rust over time ?, but as far as the tank itself ?, yeah..done with that !. wasn't cheap ?, but man, it sure beats dealing with trouble down the road !.
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-30-2018, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goober View Post
Hi bought a cheepy borescope for $20 about 2 years ago—I scratched the lens pretty bad, but it works better than nuttin

The attached pix are from an ‘86 TRX350 tank—showing the interior plumbing and the screens built onto them. First is the reserve pipe with the drain bolt removed; 2nd is the reserve intake screen 3rd is the plumbing that attaches to the petcock 4th is the bottom of the tank where water collected 5th shows the rust line.
Tank is not terribly rusty—you can see the some of the rust is flaking off in pretty thin pieces. I will use a vinegar soak and a pound of steel BBs to gently knock the rust off. Pics demonstrate the value of draining the tank annually and keeping it full to prevent condensation. Also important to use a flexible long handled small diameter bore brush to gently remove scale from the plumbing

The reason I use BBs is that they won’t damage the intake screens like bolts and other stuff people want to use. Even the polymer coatings that might work in straight draining tank might clog up these screens.

I checked the tank I cleaned two years ago—couldn’t take pics cuz the tank was full. I’ll drain it down maybe this weekend and show how well the soak worked.
What kind of solution do you use to prevent it from flash rusting after the vinegar. I know you said it was some kind of high PH hot tub stuff. What is it specifically?
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-30-2018, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Jeep it was just some hydroxide solution probably potassium. Sodium Hydroxide solution like you used should have been good. Here’s what you and I may have done differently–you rinsed with water after the high pH rinse and I dried immediately with a hair dryer leaving the high pH residual

I would have thot the alcohol would be a good dryer but looks not to be.

The tank I did two years ago still looks great.

You can see by placement of the reserve fuel intake that unless we drain the tank periodically, condensate will continue to accumulate in the tank bottom til it rises to the reserve intake screen–unlike say a trx300 which you can run reserve from the bottom of the tank.
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-30-2018, 07:48 PM
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I think you're onto something there Goober. Following with an alcohol rinse might be way too effective..? I'll try your method the next time I get a chance. Thanks for making this thread!
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-30-2018, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks all for your interest. I pulled out my cement mixer. Will stop by Smallmart tomorrow for a couple gallons of vinegar and a pound or two of BBs. Then will run the descaling on Saturday.

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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-02-2018, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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I got a gallon of cleaning vinegar (6%) and a box of 6000 copperhead BBs: put in the rusty tank.
Taped the petcock holes and filler opening with aluminum tape; bubble wrapped tank and taped up in a cardboard box. Stuffed fed end out in my cement mixer in an off-axis orientation so the BBs would roll from front to back of the tank. let it ride for and hour and switched to end out for another hour.
Drained tank and removed BBs with a long handled magnet.
Mixed a gallon solution with 5 tbls of spa pH calcium hydroxide powder. Rinsed tank with that solution and poured out.
Dried tank with hair drier.
No flash rust.
I need to get some long pipe cleaners to ream out the fuel pipes. I would like to do it one more time but I’m pretty happy with the results
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-03-2018, 03:02 AM
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Calcium Hydroxide? It works great doesn't it?! Thanks again Goober!
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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-03-2018, 06:45 AM
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Sometimes you don't need a scope to see inside , but when you do get a tank beyond repair , don't ditch it , you can cut it and make a wall hanger , there is one hanging on the patio , a bird has had a nest in the back side of the tank every year since I hung it up , so the Honda tank still brings life

I did that electrolysis thing on a 300 tank one time , you take a plastic cap to fit over the fill hole and act as a isolator , drill a hole thru the top of the cap , a piece of wood would work for a cap , put a piece of all thread with a nut on each side the cap , fill the tank with a mixture of baking soda and water , hook a battery charger to the all thread and to the tank , I went for 3 amps , the all thread attracts the rust and becomes a corn dog looking thing , on the 3rd day when I done it , it ate thru the tank and leaked all the water all over the place and made a mess , the tank was too bad to start with , never did the electrolysis thing again
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-03-2018, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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Ouch @fishfiles that’s a valuable lesson. I’ve heard of people using harsh acids and ruining their tanks too. I thot about using a copper plating technique to coat the bare metal instead of a Kreem-type coating, but was concerned I might get plating on the intake screens. That would be worth trying on a tank with a leak.

I was very surprised to see that the instructions on a Kreem kit suggested using nuts and bolts to aid in rust removal in a fuel tank. SMH.

I used the vinegar because it’s a weak acid and I feel I can manage the process better. I try to keep the time to a minimum—might’ve had better rust removal if I used more vinegar and more BBs. Actually had better results doing it twice—first to remove the scale and the second as a finishing step. Left the entire surface like brushed stainless.

I also don’t like using harsh acids or cleaning agents like MEK or acetone (Kreem kit suggestions).

Then using the spa solution to stabilize the bare metal—really liked the CaOH better than the KOH, @retro cuz of the cat-ion charge you get twice the hydroxyl groups using the calcium—lol something I read on the googles.
I will rinse out the residue with some fuel after I paint the tank.
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