Short problem? Blown CDI - Page 3 - Honda ATV Forum
Honda FourTrax Discussions for the FourTrax Rincon, Foreman, Rancher, Recon

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post #21 of 105 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 06:53 PM
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As of right now I still don't really know what killed the CDI. It just seemed like over volting or a bad battery caused it, or maybe a short because of the bad taillight all rusted.
Dad-blame it, quit saying that!!! Why do you believe the CDI is dead? The CDI runs on AC from the exciter coil, not DC battery voltage. The CDI cannot be "overvolted", as you put it. The CDI cannot be affected by a bad battery. The CDI cannot be affected by a shorted tail light circuit. Forget about all that... your CDI might be perfectly fine! THERE IS NO BATTERY VOLTAGE EVER BEING SUPPLIED TO THE IGNITION CIRCUIT.

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The stator has seperate windings? I didn't know that. And I don't think the wiring harness was messed with.
Yes, the stator contains the exciter coil windings which supply power for the ignition system only. And has entirely separate alternator windings that supply power for the battery charging system only.

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I tested the two yellow wires (all according to the manual) and the resistance was supposed to be 0.1-1.0 ohms, and with my meter's dial set to 200 ohms nothing was picked up. It also said to check continuity between the yellow wires and ground, and once again nothing was picked up. Note that I checked my meter by touching various body parts on the atv with grounding, and it beeped with continuity.
Try turning off the continuity test mode on your meter and move the dial to a lower ohms range setting.

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I get about .6-.7 ohms between my two yellow charging lines off of the connector, which is within range, but there is continuity between the wires! It beeps either way no matter what polarity of probe between the yellow wires, but it never did this off of the connector from the charging coil. So why now? With the the ohms in range, but continuity I don't know what this means, as the manual doesn't specify if there should be continuity.
Again, turn that confounded continuity beeper off and read the Ohms of resistance measurement only. You are measuring resistance in a circuit... not trying to detect a short or disprove continuity. Those are two entirely different functions that your meter provides.

You've gotten way off track. Now you are checking the DC battery charging system components rather than the ignition system components. Those two circuits are 100% independent of each other. The ignition is a closed AC-CDI system with no connection to any other circuit on the bike.
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post #22 of 105 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 07:23 PM
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I just noticed that the service manual has incorrect information in the kill switch test!!! Use my corrected image attached to this post and start over... test the ignition switch and the kill switch on the handlebar by checking for continuity as shown.

EDIT:
You will be checking for continuity (turn your beeper on) between the Black wire with a White stripe (Bl/W) and the Green wire on BOTH; the ignition switch plug and the kill switch plug. Unplug them both from the main harness for testing.
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Last edited by retro; 08-01-2018 at 07:37 PM.
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post #23 of 105 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 01:28 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry about being a knuckle head, I'm not super 100% with a multimeter, and I'm just trying to make sure what I'm doing is correct, and clearly it's not lol. The lowest setting is 200 ohms, which only shows one decimal point. Thanks for clearing up how the ignition system is a closed system.

What should I test on the ignition side? I'll re test the ignition switch and the kill switch as well as the stator connector.

Also I think the ignition switch that is currently installed was a replacement part in the past because it still has a tag with a bar code on the wire, and teh tag is old and dirty.
Again, I'm sorry I'm stupid, I'm trying to just figure this all out as stupid as I am.

Thanks for dealing with my dumbness.
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post #24 of 105 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 03:35 AM
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Retro , what about this scenario ? the voltage regulator goes haywire and over charges the DC circuit with say 20+ volts DC and high voltage takes out the CDI ----
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post #25 of 105 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 11:20 AM
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Nevermind my humor linksg, its pretty dry. I used to work around a guy many years ago who was always telling jokes. Funny guy... but when others would tease or poke fun at him joking around like guys in the shop do, he'd get quiet and flustered. He'd say "Dad blame-it quit that!" once he'd had enough ribbing and we'd all laugh and get back to our work. He came to mind as I began to type is all... and ain't no one here any dumber 'n me... Hang in there man, and if'n ya get flustered ya know what to say. :-)
@fishfiles his bike has an AC-CDI ignition, so high voltage spikes from the charging system can't reach the CDI through the stock wiring harness.
@linksg lets start over from the beginning. The service manual probably messed you up cause the wrong information is published in there for the handlebar kill switch tests. So plug that diode back in that you untaped, plug everything else back in and start with checking the ignition switch and kill switch using the corrected service manual pages I attached above. Then check to make sure the neutral light comes on when its in neutral and goes out when you shift out. Report back here with your findings and we'll go on to the next step.


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post #26 of 105 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Ah, I see. The wires from that picture submitted don't match my ignitions switch's wires at all, only one matches and that's the black one. I just received all my new parts, should I just install all the old parts and try stuff?

The neutral light and reverse light work, and the engine won't crank unless in neutral. So that's good stuff, and I also check the connectors for them both awhile ago.
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post #27 of 105 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 06:39 PM
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The ignition switch should have a three-connector plug, plus a single bullet connector plug for a total of four wires. The three-wire plug should have a Black/White wire, a Red wire and a Blue wire. The bullet connector should have a Green wire. If your switch harness has different colored wires and/or does not have two plugs totaling four wires as explained then it is not an OEM ignition switch.

Let us know what ya got before continuing.


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post #28 of 105 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 06:46 PM
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No, don't install any new parts yet. Need to take this step by step in case your ignition switch is a china garbage knockoff. If it is china you'll fry stuff!


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post #29 of 105 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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I'm dumb, I was looking at the other connector next to it which is 4 pin lol!! That's the one that has a bar code, it goes to the indicator lights, so they might have replaced it in the past, they work fine as of now. I tested the ignition switch according to the diagram you sent me, and it is up to spec, works like it shows on the diagram. I also tested the handlebar switches, and they also work as they should. What's the next step?

Should I test the new headlights? I'm thinking I should wait, as they might short again and I don't want to burn out 48 dollar light bulbs lol.

Also, attached below are pictures of my wire harness, is it normal for the different color tape? They look like they are covering bullet connectors.
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post #30 of 105 (permalink) Old 08-02-2018, 08:30 PM
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Good news on those switches being OK. Hold up on replacing your headlight bulbs until you get the bike running and measure the charging voltage, just in case...

The factory used blue tape over unused (optional) connectors, so those are probably original.

Lets check the ignition coil and CDI circuit next? OEM Honda coil only though.... if yours is anything else say so.

Unplug the two CDI harness connectors and plug in the two ignition coil connectors. Use the lowest ohms range setting on your meter and measure resistance between the Black/Yellow wire in the CDI 4-wire plug... and frame ground. Then repeat between B/Y and ground using the motor for your ground. Report back with results.


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