Short problem? Blown CDI - Page 2 - Honda ATV Forum
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post #11 of 105 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 01:43 AM
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What did you mean when you said earlier in this thread that the CDI is getting power? Have you wired battery voltage into it?


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post #12 of 105 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 01:45 AM
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G'mornin' fishfiles!


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post #13 of 105 (permalink) Old 07-31-2018, 03:35 AM
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post #14 of 105 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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The battery that was in it when the headlights blew was an old battery, and died after I got it, so that's why i bought a new AGM battery. I have ZERO china parts on this thing, all OEM. The Chinese part I bought mentioned above was from when I was desperate and lazy so I bought a cheap part to see if it would fix the problem, but I will not use it.

Here's a list of what I've done so far so that we are all on the same page:
Installed new NGK plug
Cleaned, blew out with air, and greased ALL connectors
Disconnected taillight assembly and wire due to clogged dirt and other crap
Tested neutral safety switch, reverse switch (wire right next to neutral switch), kill switch, starter switch, headlight switch, and fog light switch for functionality, and all PASSED.
I "tested" the stator with a multimeter and not a peak voltage meter, and it put out about 14v in AC.
I also tested the pulse coil and it was spitting some voltage but I can't remember how much.
Cleaned and greased all ground connectors (haven't check all of them for conductivity, only a couple when testing the switches mentioned before... ill check all of them tommorow)

Here's a list of some of the important parts I've ordered yesterday all OEM from rockymountain:
CDI
Ignition Coil
Coil Cap
Starter Diode
2x Headlight bulbs

I haven't hooked up my multi meter to the ignition switch, but I don't see a need. Should I? I don't know what I'd look for lol
The parts might get here Thursday, I'll update if it runs or not, and if it runs, i'll be sure to check the battery voltage while running like you said.

Thanks again everyone for the help.
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post #15 of 105 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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Oh and I cannot confirm that there was voltage going to the CDI, I just thought there was because while starting the engine I was probing the coil connectors and they seemed to spike in voltage (very small jump ~.1v) but I've figured out it was probably just inductive voltage coming from the other wires laying around there, or the connector for the stator, and the test was inconclusive.

Sorry, I didn't see there was a second page to this thread.
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post #16 of 105 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 01:29 AM
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The server just dumped the reply I typed. So I'll shorten up and just say yeah, check the ignition switch as the manual shows. There are more than one pair of wires to check and one pair will read open. The kill switch should read open in the RUN position too. Only other comments I had were about checking the exciter coil windings as the manual shows. Thanks for keeping us updated!


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post #17 of 105 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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I'll check the switch today, and I can't really test the exciter coil because I'd need a peak voltage tester, which I do not have.... I didn't find anything about checking the resistance... i'll check the manual again.
Does the reg/rec manage the AC power going to the CDI? I'm trying to think what could have caused the over voltage to the CDI.

Thanks for the quick reply!
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post #18 of 105 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 02:05 PM
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Does the reg/rec manage the AC power going to the CDI? I'm trying to think what could have caused the over voltage to the CDI.
No, the CDI is powered by the exciter coil windings in the stator. Only the alternator charging windings are managed through the regulator/rectifier. The exciter coil is independent from the alternator.

What makes you think the CDI was blown by overvoltage? It cannot be ruined that way unless the wiring harness was hacked on.

You can make your own PVA if you need to. That thread link is here:
https://www.hondaatvforums.net/forum...-adapters.html


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post #19 of 105 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the link, I'll look into it.

As of right now I still don't really know what killed the CDI. It just seemed like over volting or a bad battery caused it, or maybe a short because of the bad taillight all rusted.

The stator has seperate windings? I didn't know that. And I don't think the wiring harness was messed with.

What exactly do I test for?
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post #20 of 105 (permalink) Old 08-01-2018, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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Update:

I ran tests for current leakage, alternator charging coil, and rectifier connector.

The current leakage test showed nothing on my meter, meaning there was no leakage I guess.

The alternator charging coil test was weird. I tested the two yellow wires (all according to the manual) and the resistance was supposed to be 0.1-1.0 ohms, and with my meter's dial set to 200 ohms nothing was picked up. It also said to check continuity between the yellow wires and ground, and once again nothing was picked up. Note that I checked my meter by touching various body parts on the atv with grounding, and it beeped with continuity.
Please also note that I tested all of this while it's 100 degrees outside, if that changes anything.

The rectifier connector test was also interesting. I get about .6-.7 ohms between my two yellow charging lines off of the connector, which is within range, but there is continuity between the wires! It beeps either way no matter what polarity of probe between the yellow wires, but it never did this off of the connector from the charging coil. So why now? With the the ohms in range, but continuity I don't know what this means, as the manual doesn't specify if there should be continuity.
From the red wire to the green wire I get the exact battery voltage. But I get like 11 volts from the red wire to the black wire, if that means anything.
The green wire to a grounding point on the atv have continuity.
Also please note I have not tested regulated voltage as I don't have the atv running yet.

What the deal?
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