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Honda FourTrax Discussions for the FourTrax Rincon, Foreman, Rancher, Recon

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post #111 of 300 (permalink) Old 02-20-2018, 05:49 AM
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Muriatic acid is actually a little too harsh IMHO. I've used it on an old Honda Es3500 Generator that had years of goop in the bottom of the gas tank. It took it down to bare metal, but the steel flash rusts in seconds after you get the acid out.

Vinegar works well, not as quickly, but it's nowhere near as harsh.

I just bought a jug of evaporust to try as well.

The problem I've had with derusted gas tanks is re-rusting. No matter what I use, I have bare shiny metal but then come back a day or two later and there's a thin film of rust coating the inside of the tank.

So far I've heard rinse well with baking soda and water to neutralize the acid, then blow out with compressed air or dry with a heat gun, pour in rubbing alcohol to get any residual moisture out, then fill with gas.

That works ok, but the only thing I've found that seems to work well is following the vinegar with phosphor prep and etch (phosphoric acid), which actually converts rust to a different compound. I used it on a 300 tank a few weeks ago and still had some spots pop up, but the phospho turned the spots black and they haven't spread.

I'm going to try the evaporust next. I want to find a way to keep a tank 100% clean and shiny on the inside.
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post #112 of 300 (permalink) Old 02-20-2018, 06:35 AM
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Hey @Duck0fDeath i agree don’t use muriatic acid too strong.

Use vinegar and/or a rust reformer.

I taped up my tank, filled it with vinegar and a couple pounds of B.B. wrapped in bubble wrap and cardboard and wedged it in my lil cement mixer. All rust removed after 3-4 hours.

I rinsed with a high ph solution of water and hot tub high ph powder, emptied and immediately dried with a hair drier.

I’ve heard members like @b52bombardier1 use POR15 to seal the tank, perhaps especially like your with rust pinholes

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post #113 of 300 (permalink) Old 02-20-2018, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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The naval jelly treatment immediately after the rust treatment rinse is supposed to prevent the flash rusting that would occur without it. The acid is obviously more harsh than vinegar, but I don't have a cement mixer or the patience to agitate it for that long. The acid should only take 20-30 minutes. If I were keeping this tank I'd probably follow your advice. I'm just wanting to get a clean tank back on this bike asap so I can ascertain the condition of the motor.
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post #114 of 300 (permalink) Old 02-20-2018, 09:14 AM
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I've never tumbled one with vinegar. Just fill it up and let it sit for a day or two.

Let us know what you do and how it works. I really want to find a way to keep them clean once they are de-rusted.
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post #115 of 300 (permalink) Old 02-20-2018, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Just got the naval jelly. I'm about to give the acid a shot. Something was rattling around in the tank. I had known this when I removed it the other day but it didn't sound like a metal pickup tube. Initially, I thought it might be an old fuel level float. LOL, look what I pulled out. A stick!
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post #116 of 300 (permalink) Old 02-22-2018, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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Wish I would have taken a picture of the inside before I did the treatment....Looks like new afterwards. Here's a link to the write-up I used:
Rusty tank cleaning (Acid method) - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums

I had read somewhere else a recommendation to do the pinhole leak repair prior to the acid treatment...mistake. The Permatex started to bubble up at the repair site. I don't trust the Permatex to work for gas long term now either. Stripped it all off and lathered on JB Weld instead. I went crazy with it and coated everything that looked suspicious. Tomorrow I'll test it out.
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post #117 of 300 (permalink) Old 02-22-2018, 06:38 PM
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LOL at gas tank finds. I found a rubber glove and a screwdriver!
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post #118 of 300 (permalink) Old 02-22-2018, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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So, I found that the next project bike has a bad upper steering shaft bushing. Moves a good 1/2" side to side. That is the clincher for me moving everything good over to the parts bike. The one with a good rust free frame and pristine wiring harness. It's steering and front end are in great shape too. I sold the rear end out of it, but moving that over should be much easier than swapping front drive shaft assemblies. While inspecting and comparing the steering on the 3 bikes, learned that my keeper bike has a bad steering arm bushing. The other two bikes have good ones, so I'll grab the one I'm left with to swap it out, eventually.

I've started the process of removing the existing bottom end from the parts bike. Had to come and and see why I couldn't pull a cable free from the engine cover. Come to find out I was yanking on the stator wiring, lol. This is why I've started on the bad one first. It's also missing the top end, so it should be easier to maneuver.

I don't see many used lower engine parts on eeebay. This lower end was supposed to be good, except for some dirt that has likely fallen into it. Are there any components in there worth the trouble of trying to sell?

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post #119 of 300 (permalink) Old 02-23-2018, 08:38 AM
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Crank and side cover where the oil cooler lines attach are in demand for the 300 custom build guys.

I need to do a motor swap too. Would love to know the best way to get a 350 motor out. I'm used to working on the 350/420/500 which are mounted front to bike instead of sideways.

I guess you pull one swingarm or the other to get the motor out on these?

That tank looks great! Any sign of rerust?
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post #120 of 300 (permalink) Old 02-23-2018, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duck0fDeath View Post
Wish I would have taken a picture of the inside before I did the treatment....Looks like new afterwards. Here's a link to the write-up I used:
Rusty tank cleaning (Acid method) - Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Forum : Kawasaki VN750 Forums

I had read somewhere else a recommendation to do the pinhole leak repair prior to the acid treatment...mistake. The Permatex started to bubble up at the repair site. I don't trust the Permatex to work for gas long term now either. Stripped it all off and lathered on JB Weld instead. I went crazy with it and coated everything that looked suspicious. Tomorrow I'll test it out.
So to clarify, you dumped the acid, then just poured in the navel jelly? No rinse between the two with water and baking soda?

I can get tanks clean with vinegar, just can't seem to keep them from rerusting.
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