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post #61 of 86 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 10:40 AM
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Yesterday I had a few minutes and took out the factory glass fuse holders and wired in some mini fuses, so if it blows a fuse, spare fuses from other Hondas will work.

I also was hoping that, in the process, I could hook the winch switch power wire to one of those connections for power to the switch, but wanted it to only be powered with the key on, and both of those circuits are apparently hot all the time.

Where are yall tying into a keyed power source on a 300's wiring?
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post #62 of 86 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 09:25 AM
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Found the pink wire in the battery compartment so that made hooking up the winch switch power lead easy, just added a bullet connector and plugged it in.

Got quite a bit done this weekend.

Got a-arms, brakes installed, along with new tie rod ends. Brakes work ok, but not as well as they should, so I'm going to take the lines back off and blow them out with compressed air, possibly even replace them. They had a bunch of rusty looking crap in them when I went to bleed them and the right side I'm sure isn't partially blocked as it acted funny when I was bleeding it. They work, but not was well as they should.

Got the 424 installed, changed front diff fluid (gears and insides look very clean).

Got the start in gear working with a relay and Foreman M/C

Got the tires put on as well. Rear are the 26x12x12 Mudlite XL's I got from @PowerStroke70 on some aluminum rear Rubicon wheels, and the fronts are new 26x9x12 Mudlite XL's on the rear Rincon wheels that powerstroke's tires were on when I got them.

Drilled a hole in the left rear axle tube just inside the bearings, added a grease zerk, and shot about 50 squirts of marine grease in there.

Tied LED pods in the grill into the taillight circuit so they're on whenever the headlight switch is on. I'll wire a lightbar into the high beam circuit once I get the front rack on.

Still to do list.

Carb is leaking. Sometimes the overflows drips, but not all the time, but either the bowl, or more likely the plunger is dripping. Not surprising given that it's 22 years old. Starts and runs like a top after shadetree rebuilt it, but gotta figure out where the drip is coming from.

Want to add a Rick's CDI (have to wait till payday for that one), add decals (on the way), bolt the fenders down, wipe-new the fenders, paint the racks and install them, and put the flares and floorboards on.

Getting close though. I think it's going to be a nice stock-ish bike with some upgrades when finished.
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post #63 of 86 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jeepwm69 View Post
Found the pink wire in the battery compartment so that made hooking up the winch switch power lead easy, just added a bullet connector and plugged it in.

Got quite a bit done this weekend.

Got a-arms, brakes installed, along with new tie rod ends. Brakes work ok, but not as well as they should, so I'm going to take the lines back off and blow them out with compressed air, possibly even replace them. They had a bunch of rusty looking crap in them when I went to bleed them and the right side I'm sure isn't partially blocked as it acted funny when I was bleeding it. They work, but not was well as they should.

Got the 424 installed, changed front diff fluid (gears and insides look very clean).

Got the start in gear working with a relay and Foreman M/C

Got the tires put on as well. Rear are the 26x12x12 Mudlite XL's I got from @PowerStroke70 on some aluminum rear Rubicon wheels, and the fronts are new 26x9x12 Mudlite XL's on the rear Rincon wheels that powerstroke's tires were on when I got them.

Drilled a hole in the left rear axle tube just inside the bearings, added a grease zerk, and shot about 50 squirts of marine grease in there.

Tied LED pods in the grill into the taillight circuit so they're on whenever the headlight switch is on. I'll wire a lightbar into the high beam circuit once I get the front rack on.

Still to do list.

Carb is leaking. Sometimes the overflows drips, but not all the time, but either the bowl, or more likely the plunger is dripping. Not surprising given that it's 22 years old. Starts and runs like a top after shadetree rebuilt it, but gotta figure out where the drip is coming from.

Want to add a Rick's CDI (have to wait till payday for that one), add decals (on the way), bolt the fenders down, wipe-new the fenders, paint the racks and install them, and put the flares and floorboards on.

Getting close though. I think it's going to be a nice stock-ish bike with some upgrades when finished.
carb was rebuilt with new shindy carb kit, its the plunger thats leaking I bet, nothing I could do to that part of the carb. and thanks for the comment :-).

'89 trx350D foreman 4x4...'85 vf700c magna, '03 trx450fm foreman 4x4 , 2015 Yamaha waverunner fx cruiser ho, '08 vt750c2 shadow spirit
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post #64 of 86 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadetree View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepwm69 View Post
Found the pink wire in the battery compartment so that made hooking up the winch switch power lead easy, just added a bullet connector and plugged it in.

Got quite a bit done this weekend.

Got a-arms, brakes installed, along with new tie rod ends. Brakes work ok, but not as well as they should, so I'm going to take the lines back off and blow them out with compressed air, possibly even replace them. They had a bunch of rusty looking crap in them when I went to bleed them and the right side I'm sure isn't partially blocked as it acted funny when I was bleeding it. They work, but not was well as they should.

Got the 424 installed, changed front diff fluid (gears and insides look very clean).

Got the start in gear working with a relay and Foreman M/C

Got the tires put on as well. Rear are the 26x12x12 Mudlite XL's I got from @PowerStroke70 on some aluminum rear Rubicon wheels, and the fronts are new 26x9x12 Mudlite XL's on the rear Rincon wheels that powerstroke's tires were on when I got them.

Drilled a hole in the left rear axle tube just inside the bearings, added a grease zerk, and shot about 50 squirts of marine grease in there.

Tied LED pods in the grill into the taillight circuit so they're on whenever the headlight switch is on. I'll wire a lightbar into the high beam circuit once I get the front rack on.

Still to do list.

Carb is leaking. Sometimes the overflows drips, but not all the time, but either the bowl, or more likely the plunger is dripping. Not surprising given that it's 22 years old. Starts and runs like a top after shadetree rebuilt it, but gotta figure out where the drip is coming from.

Want to add a Rick's CDI (have to wait till payday for that one), add decals (on the way), bolt the fenders down, wipe-new the fenders, paint the racks and install them, and put the flares and floorboards on.

Getting close though. I think it's going to be a nice stock-ish bike with some upgrades when finished.
carb was rebuilt with new shindy carb kit, its the plunger thats leaking I bet, nothing I could do to that part of the carb. and thanks for the comment :-).
Yeah I figure it's the plunger. Dang things cost about as much as a carb!

Kid rode it up and down the street yesterday. She likes it!
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post #65 of 86 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jeepwm69 View Post
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Originally Posted by shadetree View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepwm69 View Post
Found the pink wire in the battery compartment so that made hooking up the winch switch power lead easy, just added a bullet connector and plugged it in.

Got quite a bit done this weekend.

Got a-arms, brakes installed, along with new tie rod ends. Brakes work ok, but not as well as they should, so I'm going to take the lines back off and blow them out with compressed air, possibly even replace them. They had a bunch of rusty looking crap in them when I went to bleed them and the right side I'm sure isn't partially blocked as it acted funny when I was bleeding it. They work, but not was well as they should.

Got the 424 installed, changed front diff fluid (gears and insides look very clean).

Got the start in gear working with a relay and Foreman M/C

Got the tires put on as well. Rear are the 26x12x12 Mudlite XL's I got from @PowerStroke70 on some aluminum rear Rubicon wheels, and the fronts are new 26x9x12 Mudlite XL's on the rear Rincon wheels that powerstroke's tires were on when I got them.

Drilled a hole in the left rear axle tube just inside the bearings, added a grease zerk, and shot about 50 squirts of marine grease in there.

Tied LED pods in the grill into the taillight circuit so they're on whenever the headlight switch is on. I'll wire a lightbar into the high beam circuit once I get the front rack on.

Still to do list.

Carb is leaking. Sometimes the overflows drips, but not all the time, but either the bowl, or more likely the plunger is dripping. Not surprising given that it's 22 years old. Starts and runs like a top after shadetree rebuilt it, but gotta figure out where the drip is coming from.

Want to add a Rick's CDI (have to wait till payday for that one), add decals (on the way), bolt the fenders down, wipe-new the fenders, paint the racks and install them, and put the flares and floorboards on.

Getting close though. I think it's going to be a nice stock-ish bike with some upgrades when finished.
carb was rebuilt with new shindy carb kit, its the plunger thats leaking I bet, nothing I could do to that part of the carb. and thanks for the comment :-).
Yeah I figure it's the plunger. Dang things cost about as much as a carb!

Kid rode it up and down the street yesterday. She likes it!
amazon sells the cheapo's for about 20 bucks I think it was ?. or you can buy oem from honda, lol.

'89 trx350D foreman 4x4...'85 vf700c magna, '03 trx450fm foreman 4x4 , 2015 Yamaha waverunner fx cruiser ho, '08 vt750c2 shadow spirit
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post #66 of 86 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 01:23 PM
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I have never bought a new plunger... I always fix those leakers/potential leakers by making a thin ring-shaped gasket outta some thin viton sheet about .010" to .015" thick or so. Old diaphragms scrounged from fuel pumps and chainsaw carbs works great. I used to buy viton sheeting from a guy in Australia who sold on eBay but I can't find him anymore.

If you look at the plunger where it screws down against the bowl you'll see a recessed ring in the aluminum where the diaphragm is retained in. Those diaphragms are supposed to be thick enough around their outer edges to seal inside that recessed ring, but they degrade over time and flatten out... then they leak. Most o-rings are usually too thick to fit in there or that'd be a quick and easy fix. Viton and scissors fixes every one of them permanently though, at no cost.

Thats a real nice bike Jeep!

EDIT: Another trick that might work, though I have never tried it, might be a thin brass ring cut from brass shim stock with scissors. Ya only gotta take up a few thousands of an inch behind the outer edge of that diaphragm, to force it to seal against the bowl like a new plunger does.
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Last edited by retro; 04-29-2019 at 01:37 PM.
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post #67 of 86 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 02:29 PM
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Well I have several carbs laying around the shop, so what I'll probably do is nab one off of those and see if it fixes the issue.

Looks like they're all the same plunger for a lot of different bikes, and I know I've got a junked 500 carb here (blown diaphram) and the carb off my other daughter's 350 that I cleaned and cleaned and couldn't get to run right, so I'll probably just rob one off one of those.
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post #68 of 86 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 07:34 AM
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Got a little bit done yesterday. Got front inner fenders installed, front fender supports. Got the battery box lid bracket installed and bolted down the rear fender, got the left side floorboard installed (they appear to be Strong-Made 250 Recon floorboards which were sold to me as 300 floorboards a while back, but I think I can make them work)

Something is funky in the front bumper or rack. The front rack holes in the fender are enlarged towards the rear, where the front rack supports were pushed back into the plastic. I figured someone bent the front bumper back, and that pushed the front rack back, but I'm using a different front bumper than the one that came on it (had another one with winch fairlead holes already drilled) so unless that one is bent just like the original, something else is off. Going to get a 6 foot heavy prybar and see if I can work the bumper forward a little to get the rack supports back centered in the factory holes in the plastic.

Got a single row lightbar in yesterday too that I'm going to install under the hoop on the front rack. Will have to remove the center support, but I've seen a couple done that way and I like the fact that the hoop protects the lightbar and it gives a nice clean installation.
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post #69 of 86 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 09:08 AM
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The front rack on my Rancher was pushed back like yours when I got it, one of the brackets that the tops of the fender mounts to was partially flattened. Once I straitened that flattened bracket up nothing would fit anymore... was a head-scratcher, didn't make any sense cause nothing else looked bent... ended up being the rear supports on the rack were bent (they're sorta dog-leg shaped) where they go down through the top of the fender to bolt to the frame near the row of harness plugs. I slid a pipe over each one and bent them a little at a time (trial and error, I didn't know what was wrong at the time), until all of the bolts lined up... those fender mount holes miraculously centered up too. I had spent hours looking at that thing, clueless... :-)
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post #70 of 86 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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The front rack on my Rancher was pushed back like yours when I got it, one of the brackets that the tops of the fender mounts to was partially flattened. Once I straitened that flattened bracket up nothing would fit anymore... was a head-scratcher, didn't make any sense cause nothing else looked bent... ended up being the rear supports on the rack were bent (they're sorta dog-leg shaped) where they go down through the top of the fender to bolt to the frame near the row of harness plugs. I slid a pipe over each one and bent them a little at a time (trial and error, I didn't know what was wrong at the time), until all of the bolts lined up... those fender mount holes miraculously centered up too. I had spent hours looking at that thing, clueless... :-)
you shoulda seen me straitening a trx450 front bumper and rack awhile back !..oh what fun that was !!. I had 2 inch ratchet straps hooked to both the front and back of the atv in my shop. as long as the frames are not messed up ?, and rack or bumper can be fixed..just takes a good eye to see the problem area :-).

'89 trx350D foreman 4x4...'85 vf700c magna, '03 trx450fm foreman 4x4 , 2015 Yamaha waverunner fx cruiser ho, '08 vt750c2 shadow spirit
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