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post #1021 of 1084 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 10:21 AM
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a larger plastic one with room for mounting a bigger heatsink? If you could improve cooling capacity a bit it could remain sealed inside your pelican box.
IMO best idea ^^^ this bring up as issue ... The dissipated amp heat still remains sealed in. this is where shades pc fan idea CLICKS! Equals a larger inclosure along with added heat sinks , and a pc cooling fan all sealed in.
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post #1022 of 1084 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 11:35 AM
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I believe that you can cool that amp sufficiently without unsealing the pelican. An aluminum base under it will sink a lot of heat and transfer quite a bit into the plastic box through added surface area contact with the plastic, where air and water then carry it away. You can slather a thin layer of cheap silicone heat sink compound on the bottom of the box to make it remove heat faster if needed.

Modern class D amps don't produce near as much heat like the old-school class A/B brute force designs did so those rules don't apply anymore. High power doesn't make good sounding systems anyway, so its safe to ignore those marketing claims when working with class D chips.

Look at marine units... those are usually sealed completely. You can get away with sealing a modern class D amp housing because they are very efficient. Simply add enough mass externally and no cooling air flow is required.

If your aluminum sandwich doesn't keep up (I think it will) you could drill two holes in each end of the box, slide two thin-walled lengths of conduit through those holes, clamp the tubing up against each side of the amp where the chips are screwed down and seal the tubes in the plastic box with 3M 5200. Wallah! Flow through ventilation! Watertight!
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post #1023 of 1084 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 12:12 PM
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Here are some pics for ya to help back up my claims. I know I come across like a backwoods nutter who likes to argue, so here ya go... :-)

This is a cheap china two-channel class D amp board, costs about $12 shipped. BUT this board has two genuine Texas Instruments 3116D2, 100 watts each, class D chips mounted on that small 4.125" x 2.5" board. Not only that, but the gain is maxxed out by the chinamen who put it together cause they didn't know where to set it. I'm talking a genuine brute forced, overdriven 200 watts total here, no blue-sky marketing claims!

See that tiny heatsink? That cools both of those tiny 100 watt chips at the same time. Sure it is exposed to air... but it doesn't even get too hot cranked up to handle. You can lay your finger against that heatsink anytime and it won't burn ya. At any volume setting below 1/4 way cranked up that tiny heatsink isn't even needed. The PCB carries the heat away. Does it sound good? Not bad, considering the chinese assembled it poorly. :-)
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post #1024 of 1084 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 04:44 AM Thread Starter
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I put a lot of hours on this bike this weekend , and even a lot more hours on the amp and I do believe I fried the amp this time , cooling off didn't resurrect it , it be dead ! -- looked for a new one and the price went up with some venders , they are around $130 now for the 1000w with 4 speakers , I found a guy selling them for $86 with free shipping , so I am going to try it again so it will be plug and play and not have to rewire another amp , my buddy has the same unit on his Yamaha and he had it long time before me , his amp is in a big ammo can type of container that is not very air tight and he has not had problems , this time I am going to do the heat sink aluminum plates and some type of air vent / snorkel
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post #1025 of 1084 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 08:12 AM
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I think @retro should tell us how to use one of those $12 amps to create our own setups.......
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post #1026 of 1084 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 09:20 AM
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nice bike

MrC.
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post #1027 of 1084 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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nice bike

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Thank you MrC , lot of love , sweat , time and money went into it --- I see you got a project going on ...
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post #1028 of 1084 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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I think @retro should tell us how to use one of those $12 amps to create our own setups.......
I bet Retro could build a amp with double the power , half the heat build up and twice as water proof
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post #1029 of 1084 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
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a larger plastic one with room for mounting a bigger heatsink? If you could improve cooling capacity a bit it could remain sealed inside your pelican box.
IMO best idea ^^^ this bring up as issue ... The dissipated amp heat still remains sealed in. this is where shades pc fan idea CLICKS! Equals a larger inclosure along with added heat sinks , and a pc cooling fan all sealed in.

them pc cooling fan would be perfect sized , I wonder what voltage the run on !
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post #1030 of 1084 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 11:45 AM
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You can make your own system by modifying a few china boards (or design/assemble your own amps from scratch is sometimes a wiser choice), a mini-DSP/graphic equalizer and decent head unit Jeep, but you can buy complete systems/amps so much cheaper retail that DIY stuff doesn't begin to make sense until you need something special that can't be found in stores.

Now, when it comes down to finding good drivers/loudspeakers, designing and building your own loudspeaker enclosures from scratch is the better option for highest quality, highest efficiency, highest output and lowest cost. Most retail drivers/enclosures suck (except for the very high-end stuff from a few elite manufacturers) when compared to custom designs that you can build in your garage yourself. You can find that rabbit-hole entrance at DIYAudio.com. Hornresp is easy to learn and arguably, the finest, most complete design software on earth and its free, maintained by an incredibly intelligent and super nice guy, ever since the late 1960s.

In case you can't find an exit over there, hollar and I'll send ya all of my homebuilt measurement devices and softwares. I got some good stuff. :-)
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