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post #1011 of 1046 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by _Wilson_ View Post
I think it looks good slightly lower with that swing are stretch ..... I bet it's more stable ?
You are right about being more stable and it turns much better too !
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post #1012 of 1046 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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You could throw it in the ice chest.
You might have something there , the box is water proof , the ice will keep the box cool , LOL----to make matters worst the box is black which absorbs heat , I know cause I have a black pickup , and we get pretty hot down here , it was like 80+ last ride
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post #1013 of 1046 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 05:34 PM Thread Starter
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How about routing your intake snorkel to the air tight box for the amp and then directing that same air to the carb. The air flow would cool the amp at the same time right? Big question is " is there room to do it?
I don't think I could fit a 2 inch pipe into the box side , but like the way you think !!!
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post #1014 of 1046 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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What does the amplifier enclosure look like? Is it put together with screws so you could easily open it up? If so, I'd open the housing for a looksee... might be able to add a chunk of aluminum or copper to increase the heatsink area that the amp chips mount on. Alternatively, ya might just stuff the guts into an all-aluminum enclosure, or a larger plastic one with room for mounting a bigger heatsink? If you could improve cooling capacity a bit it could remain sealed inside your pelican box.
Retro , there can't be much heat sink , it is a tiny unit , amazing how now days they can cram 1000 watts into such a small package , in the old days a 100 watts amps was as big as a cigar box
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post #1015 of 1046 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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I think it looks good slightly lower with that swing are stretch ..... I bet it's more stable ?
the only things good the lift did was make it look good and get it 6 inches higher in the water ----the swing arm makes a difference in the way it attaches the holes , with the 6 1/2 longer wheel base , I found I am able to come out holes easily were there is a steep exit , where the other bikes have trouble
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post #1016 of 1046 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 06:28 PM
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We need a pic of it flush mounted in the box. I'm thinking extra heat sink fins.
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post #1017 of 1046 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 11:02 PM
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You could bolt the amp down on a 1/4" thick aluminum plate that fits inside the pelican, with two blocks of aluminum, one on each side, pushed and clamped against the sides of the amp. Sorta like an amplifier sandwich. The aluminum base and blocks contacting the sides would conduct heat away from the aluminum sides of the amp where the chips are mounted.

FYI, that ain't no 1000 watt amp, more like blue-sky marketing claims stretched to extremes, then that blue-sky figure got tripled by the time they printed the retail box. We just do the math using ohms law, since it don't ever lie to us... a decent design class D amp will be up to 90% efficient on average, which is higher efficiency capability than class A/B units and nowadays, very inexpensive to build. So your amp is a class D for certain, based on cheap cost to manufacture alone.

So in a perfect blue-sky utopia, mounted on an ATV with a huge alternator (probably incapable of doing anything else except generate power cause its motor is only 500cc class), with more than 10% of its gross weight devoted to battery capacity and with 6 gauge welding cable interconnecting those power supply components and amplifier:

1000 watts divided by 14.5 volts = 68.9655172414 amperes gross power consumption @100% efficiency

But an efficient amp tops out at 90% efficiency (thats just chip performance, does not account for circuit losses) so:

1000 watts divided by 14.5 volts = 68.9655172414 amperes, plus 10% = 75.8620689655 amperes required just to feed those amplifier chips.

Blue skies utopia...? Basing on the power supply wire gauge feeding the amp that might be a 200-250 watt'er, tops. 250 watts would require 18.965 amps gross which might not be possible either.

But high power amps are not required for high quality music reproduction/high output decibel levels. The loudspeaker enclosure design, speaker match and environment accounts for all of the sound reproduction output. So your system probably sounds great and plays loud without melting any wires! Most good systems do. :-)

I'd try adding some heatsinking to the amp case externally. Another 15% of cooling capacity might be plenty.
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post #1018 of 1046 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 02:19 AM Thread Starter
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Retro , Thanks for that lesson in Wattage and heat displacement > Being some what of a Chef at heart , I think I can do a sandwich , one amp on 1/4 inch aluminum coming up !
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post #1019 of 1046 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 07:35 AM
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if ya did not ride in lakes ? ( yeah..like thats gonna happen..right ? )….lol. if it were me ,( and I know its not ! ..lol ) I would just put a pc fan or two in the side of the box, one on each side, one going in, other going out, this would cool the amp. again..this is if you stayed on DRY land ?!..lol.
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post #1020 of 1046 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 07:37 AM
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and for what its worth ?, any good amp, like from the good ole days !..lol. most amps back then had built in cooling fans already built into the frame. but you still would need air to get in and out, soooooo :-).
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