1988 TRX 300 rear wheels locked up - Page 3 - Honda ATV Forum
Brakes & Suspension Have a question about your brakes? Need some suspension advice? Try this section for answers

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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 09:31 PM
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What you have there is (whats left of ) the fill/check plug,, n yep, i agree with GRT, it looks purdy rough, i myself ?? I'd pass on that purchase.

Here's the drain plug. #17
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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Actually it was really easy to get off it was allready loose. It had water and bad gear oil inside sonim thinking that the reason it wont turnnis that something is rusted. I tried to get off the whole diff but my jack was in the way of some bolts. Anyway to get off the cover without damaging it
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 01:42 AM
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Actually it was really easy to get off it was allready loose. It had water and bad gear oil inside sonim thinking that the reason it wont turnnis that something is rusted. I tried to get off the whole diff but my jack was in the way of some bolts. Anyway to get off the cover without damaging it
Have you tried putting that fill cap back on?? I bet it was loose because it's stripped out. It should never be loose.

You used the term "diff". That case on your rear axle is the "Final Gear Assembly". The case alone is $700.00. SO, you do not need to be tearing into that case unless you absolutely know what you're doing. Look at the attached schematic and you'll see how many parts are involved.

I can't explain how to remove the gear assembly in 100 words or less. This is where you must read the service manual and follow it step by step. Did you download the manual from the link I posted? You're about to undertake a big project and need to know exactly how to do it, so read through the entire procedure in the manual before you start working. There are parts that are easily damaged and specific ways to remove certain parts.

BEFORE you even touch that gear assembly you need to inspect and disassemble the brake!! Why work on the assembly when the brake might be the problem?? Working on the brake is a easy job.

Also, the axle for your bike is no longer available so be sure not to damage it any more than it already is.

Lastly, I noticed you were using blocks to hold up that bike. Go to the auto parts store and get some jack stands before you get under that bike and hurt yourself. Sorry if I sound like your mother. You can't have a jack under the rear axle while you're working on it.
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 09:21 AM
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Hereís how i have mine raised up, on a Harley Davidson bike lift i bought for $75. Along with some jackstands my buddy gave me for helping him move. And four 1.5 inch ratchet straps

So you need to get probably 4 jackstands under the frame to keep it stable

You can try putting some fresh oil into the final drive and try turning it. If your brake is frozen and your pinion and bearings are rusty, well you probably wonít be riding it for awhile. And thatís okay cuz at this point youíre learning about your rig.
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Crave View Post
Actually it was really easy to get off it was allready loose. It had water and bad gear oil inside sonim thinking that the reason it wont turnnis that something is rusted. I tried to get off the whole diff but my jack was in the way of some bolts. Anyway to get off the cover without damaging it
Have you tried putting that fill cap back on?? I bet it was loose because it's stripped out. It should never be loose.

You used the term "diff". That case on your rear axle is the "Final Gear Assembly". The case alone is $700.00. SO, you do not need to be tearing into that case unless you absolutely know what you're doing. Look at the attached schematic and you'll see how many parts are involved.

I can't explain how to remove the gear assembly in 100 words or less. This is where you must read the service manual and follow it step by step. Did you download the manual from the link I posted? You're about to undertake a big project and need to know exactly how to do it, so read through the entire procedure in the manual before you start working. There are parts that are easily damaged and specific ways to remove certain parts.

BEFORE you even touch that gear assembly you need to inspect and disassemble the brake!! Why work on the assembly when the brake might be the problem?? Working on the brake is a easy job.

Also, the axle for your bike is no longer available so be sure not to damage it any more than it already is.

Lastly, I noticed you were using blocks to hold up that bike. Go to the auto parts store and get some jack stands before you get under that bike and hurt yourself. Sorry if I sound like your mother. You can't have a jack under the rear axle while you're working on it.
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what I am getting out of it , you say you can turn the brake side wheel and not the left side wheel , that would make me think you have a second problem , the both wheels are mounted on hubs that are splined to the axle , so neither one should turn , sounds like the hub spline is stripped out , but that is a secondary problem at this point , if so the axle will have to be replaced with the hub , some people weld them up and send it ----- the drum can be very hard to come off , and sometimes they are not going to come off without destroying it , there are splines on the drum to the axle and they get very rusted up , if your splines of the hub are stripped , then you don't have to worry about damaging the axle by hitting on it , the axle also has splines that mate with the ring gear , it gets frozen there bad also , if you are not very mechanically inclined and have tools , you might to just find another rear end to stick under it , cause it can get pretty involved
Sorry for not responding for a long time but i just got the drum brake cover off and realised that there was dirt and rust in the drum brake that were keeping it from spinning, once i removed the 2nd cover the axle span freely. Whats a good cleaner to remove all the dirt inside
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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 11:23 PM
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Thanks for telling us what you found. Great pics! I hope that is the only cause of the seizing.

Nasty hub and brakes, for sure, but they'll clean up. I had some that looked almost that bad. I started with lots of water to get the dried mud and gunk out. Just turn the hose on it. Then, remove the brake shoes and the brake cam. That cam must be cleaned up or your brakes will never work properly.

Now, follow the manual about inspecting, lubricating and replacing parts. Here's a link to the parts schematic to help you. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ho...ar-brake-panel
You can see that there are bearings, seals, etc that will need to be replaced. Don't skip this step or you'll be right back where you started the next time it seizes up, and it will.

I use Simple Green as a general cleaner. You can also used Brake Clean in spray can and it cleans things up nicely but you need to get most of the gunk off first or you waste a lot of product. I always have a can of PB Blaster handy as well as purple grease.

You can use some fine sandpaper, 220 grit, and clean up the inside of the drum as well as the brake cam. Some members use a Dremel with sanding drums.
Again, follow along with the manual and you'll be happy with the result! We'll be here to help you if you need it.


Forgot to add the disclaimer. LOL. Brake dust can contain asbestos. You should wear a mask while cleaning the brakes. Clean at your own risk.
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Last edited by GirlsRideToo; 07-23-2019 at 11:29 PM. Reason: Prison is not for me.
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 06:38 AM
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Since you're there, make sure your axle isn't wobbling inside your brake panel / final drive. If so, you will need to take it apart further and inspect which bearings/seals need to be replaced.
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 06:48 AM
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I always take the brake drum to my local machine shop for truing/turning. Cost me $10 for a proper job

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