I'm mystified...brake lever very tight...again!!! - Page 2 - Honda ATV Forum
Brakes & Suspension Have a question about your brakes? Need some suspension advice? Try this section for answers

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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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i had a truck, think it was 76 ford, henry. any way, when i hit the brakes, the fluid would go forward, but not return. it made for awkward breaking, and turning. i had to replace the front break lines on both side's. problem solved. i doubt hondaatv has this problem, but it can happen.
maybe i'm the only one this happened to, hard to believe, though it could be so.. stranger thing's have happened. i have seen a few.

I was able to blow air threw them so I don't think the lines are plugged. And that's not pressurized air, just air out of the nozzle. I'm thinking there must be some sort of return in the MC. Maybe its plugged. The force of my hand pulling the lever is enough to get the brake fluid to move to work the wheel cylinders but the MC is not allowing the brake fluid to flow back into the resivour when the brake is released. Which keeps the wheel cylinders pushed out and the brake lever tight. At least this is what I'm thinking the problem is! I could be way off.
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 07:15 AM
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Did you replace the MC seals?
When I replaced my seals the first time i put one in backward—they are directional. I slso had to scrape off a waxy looking build up on the piston. I also had to unplug the two orifice in bottom of the mc.
If you didn’t get into the mc last time then yes, I would get into it.

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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 11:56 AM Thread Starter
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Did you replace the MC seals?
When I replaced my seals the first time i put one in backward–they are directional. I slso had to scrape off a waxy looking build up on the piston. I also had to unplug the two orifice in bottom of the mc.
If you didn’t get into the mc last time then yes, I would get into it.


AHHHHHHAAAAA!!!! So there are 2 orifice in the bottom? Maybe 1 is for outgoing brake fluid and 1 is for return? That makes sense to me and is good to know. Thanks!

I haven't touched the MC. I ordered the rebuild kit and it should be here soon.
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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LedFTed View Post
i had a truck, think it was 76 ford, henry. any way, when i hit the brakes, the fluid would go forward, but not return. it made for awkward breaking, and turning. i had to replace the front break lines on both side's. problem solved. i doubt hondaatv has this problem, but it can happen.
maybe i'm the only one this happened to, hard to believe, though it could be so.. stranger thing's have happened. i have seen a few.

I was able to blow air threw them so I don't think the lines are plugged. And that's not pressurized air, just air out of the nozzle. I'm thinking there must be some sort of return in the MC. Maybe its plugged. The force of my hand pulling the lever is enough to get the brake fluid to move to work the wheel cylinders but the MC is not allowing the brake fluid to flow back into the resivour when the brake is released. Which keeps the wheel cylinders pushed out and the brake lever tight. At least this is what I'm thinking the problem is! I could be way off.
Henry, was an older truck, so it probably dont apply. i might have been able to blow air both way's through the brake lines or not. fluid though, only one way. i never seen this before, never seen it since. i just happened to be the lucky one, this happened to.. strange thing's happen. it's just a given.
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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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So I got the rebuild kit. After I got it apart, I see the 2 orifaces. 1 is very very small. Is that correct? As is so small a I used a piece of wire from a wire brush to unplug it. Sound right?

Everything went back together as it should but now the brakes don't seem to be bleeding. The entire system was emptied of brake fluid so I'm sure it will take a bit to get brake fluid down to the bleeders but the brake fluid in the MC doesn't seem to emptying like I would expect.

Is the metal plunger supposed to go in a certain way? I just slide it in. I think its also leaking brake fluid from the plunger seal. Did not do that before.

Now I'm frustrated! Not much to screw up!

20 minutes later....I clamped the rubber brake line with vise grips. I can hear brake fluid coming out the plunger and its leaking. So I'll have to take it apart tomorrow to see what I did wrong!

Last edited by Budweiser; 06-20-2019 at 08:37 PM.
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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 08:37 PM
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Was there a piston in the kit already assembled with a new cup seal on it? If so just slide it in... but note that the cup seal lip must face towards the bottom of the bore so it holds fluid pressure while applied, but can collapse to allow fluid to flow back past the seal when the piston is withdrawn by the return spring. The cup seal shape makes the master cylinder into a positive displacement pump only while the piston is being pushed into the bore, in other words.

If you have the master cylinder assembled correctly but it leaks, the bore might be pitted or burred, or its possible the new kit parts do not fit that master cylinder.


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post #17 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 08:51 PM Thread Starter
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The kit was a Honda rebuild kit. The cup seal was not on the piston, I had to slide it on. Don't think I did it wrong, I copied the original. But I may have!

I'll take it apart tomorrow.
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post #18 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-20-2019, 10:02 PM
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i might be wrong, but clamping brake line's, just dont seem right. ya might have to have help with bleeding, the brakes. i have..
no matter, atv's or truck's. {i left out cars, farm tractors, anything with a hydrolic brake line}, it just is...
manual brake lines, should ya run across them, a different matter. like emergency, brakes.

clymers manual,service manual..
"what a good giff, the good lord gee us,not to see ourselves,as others see us"
hard to talk to morons. even more so, when related..
"ya should get 3 people ta smile or laugh every day" all will feel better
"sometimes, when drinking 5 or 6 bud's, nipping JB, Jim Beam, cinnamon in between, i start thinking sideways,,i have too though, ta match the way i walk" ed
"those that dont study history, are doomed to repeat it"
"I HOPE i aint wrote nutting else stupid" "funniest comedy dont need curse words" "teach how to think, not what to" ed
"Genius can be measured,not stupid" Albert Einstein
"when you get to old to learn, then what good are you" ed
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Last edited by LedFTed; 06-20-2019 at 10:06 PM.
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 01:06 AM
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my money was on the small hole in the bottom of the master cylinder. this is your return line. if your brakes are sticking like you said ^^^ ?, this tells me your return line hole in the master cylinder is clogged.

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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 01:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LedFTed View Post
i might be wrong, but clamping brake line's, just dont seem right. ya might have to have help with bleeding, the brakes. i have..
no matter, atv's or truck's. {i left out cars, farm tractors, anything with a hydrolic brake line}, it just is...
manual brake lines, should ya run across them, a different matter. like emergency, brakes.
and your wrong..lol. been doing it this way for over 20 years, not once have I had any issues bleeding brakes on atvs.
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