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Brakes & Suspension Have a question about your brakes? Need some suspension advice? Try this section for answers

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Today, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
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Brakes Rancher Rear

My new to me 2006 350 rear brake adjustments were turned all the way in, still working but time to replace brake shoes.

After getting the ATV up off the floor and removing the wheel. All I can say is I am glad I still had my air impact wrench. The large nut was a bugger to get off. I found the cover dented and have a new one on order.... after I painted it thinking I would need to reuse.

The shoes were pretty bad. The top one was rusted on the pivot so tight it would not move so the only real brake was the bottom shoe. I am also going to turn the drum in my metal lathe to remove the ridge. I will used high temp grease on all the pivot points when it goes back together.

I wonder how the cover got dented, the wheel has no marks?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Today, 09:26 AM
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covers get dented all the time, has for many years. what ridge you speaking of on the brake drum ?, lining ridge ?, or the large c-clip ring ?. don't bother trying to turn the c-clip down !. all that does is hold the brake shoe lining inside the drum. if I were you ?, and the drum is that far gone ?, just buy a new drum :-).
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Today, 09:29 AM
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if the drum is not too far gone ?, you can just knock off the surface crud, sand paper, Dremel wheel with a grinding stone is what I use. new shoes, then just kick the brake arm back a spline or two, adjust cables, then the drum is back in bizz for a few more rides. if you really want to solve the problem, then yes, a new brake drum is needed :-).

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Today, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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covers get dented all the time, has for many years. what ridge you speaking of on the brake drum ?, lining ridge ?, or the large c-clip ring ?. don't bother trying to turn the c-clip down !. all that does is hold the brake shoe lining inside the drum. if I were you ?, and the drum is that far gone ?, just buy a new drum :-).
I would be a little foolish trying to turn down that C Clip. I took out the wear marks inside the drum, with a .002 inch cut with a carbide tool. The drum is in good condition and this is not my first brake job, I did my first on my 49 Ford back when I was 16.

I kick myself in the butt for selling my EMCO Super 11 lathe, this is the 10 or 20th time I could have used it .

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Today, 10:21 AM
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covers get dented all the time, has for many years. what ridge you speaking of on the brake drum ?, lining ridge ?, or the large c-clip ring ?. don't bother trying to turn the c-clip down !. all that does is hold the brake shoe lining inside the drum. if I were you ?, and the drum is that far gone ?, just buy a new drum :-).
I would be a little foolish trying to turn down that C Clip. I took out the wear marks inside the drum, with a .002 inch cut with a carbide tool. The drum is in good condition and this is not my first brake job, I did my first on my 49 Ford back when I was 16.
lol, well then..it seems your on top of your game plan !. get-r-done !.

'89 trx350D foreman 4x4...'85 vf700c magna, '03 trx450fm foreman 4x4 , 2015 Yamaha waverunner fx cruiser ho, '08 vt750c2 shadow spirit
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Today, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
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covers get dented all the time, has for many years. what ridge you speaking of on the brake drum ?, lining ridge ?, or the large c-clip ring ?. don't bother trying to turn the c-clip down !. all that does is hold the brake shoe lining inside the drum. if I were you ?, and the drum is that far gone ?, just buy a new drum :-).
I would be a little foolish trying to turn down that C Clip. I took out the wear marks inside the drum, with a .002 inch cut with a carbide tool. The drum is in good condition and this is not my first brake job, I did my first on my 49 Ford back when I was 16.
lol, well then..it seems your on top of your game plan !. get-r-done !.
Now I am wondering about the front brakes??? This thing has less than 3k miles, 600 hours and I was really looking forward to riding it someday. Front stops ok. The rear brakes I think got water inside from that dent in the cover. The seal was separated and I think because the dent tilted it and wore it out. Thanks for your Help!!!
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Today, 12:14 PM
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I'd do the front brakes too. The front brakes are about 90% of your braking power anyway. Please replace the brake shoe cams while you're at it. They will wear off the corners and greatly diminish the leverage and efficiency of all manual brakes.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Today, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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Is Never Seez acceptable for a lube on the cam face and pivot pins? I found my printed instruction sheet that had blown away under my CNC Router and it says grease.

Cam is fine, the only reason the rear brakes needed replaced is because of that leaking seal. It has less than 3000 miles and 600 hours. These are the OEM brakes. But I will check the front brakes via the insp hole when I pull off the wheels for the new tires.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Today, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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I read the Sticky and there is some discussion on using Never Seeze, that is what I have normally used as I thought grease attracted dirt and it became more wearing than a lube. ?? Open to suggestions.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Today, 04:34 PM
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I read the Sticky and there is some discussion on using Never Seeze, that is what I have normally used as I thought grease attracted dirt and it became more wearing than a lube. ?? Open to suggestions.
I just put a light dab of grease on the brake cam, as well as where the brake shoes rest, thats all I do. I don't use anti-seize on anything. while you have the grease out, you may as well remove the foot brake lever, clean the rust off it, both the lever hole and shaft, dab of grease on it too :-).

'89 trx350D foreman 4x4...'85 vf700c magna, '03 trx450fm foreman 4x4 , 2015 Yamaha waverunner fx cruiser ho, '08 vt750c2 shadow spirit
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