Honda ATV Forum banner

Petcock Rebuild III 86-89 TRX350

13K views 17 replies 4 participants last post by  LedFTed 
#1 · (Edited)
Update of petcock rebuild procedure 86-89 TRX350; this is my seventh one—sofar I have only found one oddball with a lever that was slightly larger diameter.

You can buy a set of seals on fleabay that includes the 4-hole packing, an oring lever seal, 2 tank seals and 2 screws. It will help greatly to use a small jewelers drill press and a set of oring probes.

Two things about this kit is that 1) I can’t find the right tap for the kit screws (3mm x 0.5mm?), so I use 6x32x3/8” screws; 2) the original petcock lever uses a quad seal instead of an oring–I haven’t followed up on the right sized quad seal because the oring fits.

I use a wooden jig to hold the petcock (with screws/nuts) while I’m drilling–it gets hot and this will help you concentrate on bit placement. I started with a #45—fits perfectly in the rivet head dimple–use cutting oil and small depths so you don’t weld the bit to the rivet. Drill all the way thru the ear of the petcock backshell.

Next use a #36 bit to enlarge the hole for the 6mmx32 tap. Take short strokes and plenty of cutting oil; back out the tap often to clear the shavings. Lastly cut the head off the rivets using a #20 bit and very shallow stroke–you want to leave a bit of the old rivet bodies as alignment pins. You can pop off the top shell cover with a flathead screwdriver–be careful not to damage the fiber shim underneath.

Replace all the seals, lubing with a petroleum compatible grease. Reassemble by seating the 4-hole packing on the backshell, then lever with seal, compression spring, fiber shim and topshell. Run the screws down firmly, but not too tight or will be hard to operate lever–no gasket sealer is needed. Took me an hour.

Oh that little piece? A rivet head.
 

Attachments

See less See more
5
#3 ·
Thanks Retro followed your guidance from last time–I did all the drilling and brushed the shavings away before removing the top shell. This keeps shavings out of the petcock body–important because a small piece of shaving will cut the seals–and there’s a LOT of shavings with this job!!

I use an old Grobet Vigor DR-615 jewelers drill press, bought at auction, and a set of oring probes bought on fleabay for $12.

I saved all my parts to later compare sizes and condition. Only one petcock I had leaked from the lever seal; the others wouldn’t shut off the fuel–seems common failure was caused by rust particles cutting the packing seal.
 

Attachments

#4 ·
Surprising that Honda riveted these instead of using small screws. The round gasket goes bad often and most OEMs use them. Luckily most newer petcocks don't use rivets.

Rob
 
  • Like
Reactions: Goober
#5 ·
just seen this an payed attention. it should be a sticky. good job :smile
 
  • Like
Reactions: Goober
#8 ·
A pic from the time i did four in a row. This allowed me to refine the method.
Used a homemade jig to hold the petcock.
Select a pilot bit small enough to fit inside the rivet dimple (55). Use plenty of oil a drill very slowly or the bit will weld to the rivet. You want chips not ribbons of drillings.
Then use the bit intended for the 6mm x 32 tap (29).
Use a big bit to cut off the rivet head. This time i used a 16. If bit is too small—it cuts the rivet head and pulls the top shell up.
Tap with plenty of oil and back out the tap as soon as it starts to bind. About 1/3 in and again at 2/3s—clean the shavings off with a brass brush.
This will allow you to brush all the drillings off the petcock before you open it up with a thin blade screwdriver.
Soak the metal parts in carb cleaner and remove bits of seal with a bamboo scraper
I used a film of bearing grease on the seals so they don’t drag on the cleaned metal.
 

Attachments

#9 · (Edited)
sorry

i subscribed to it this time, so i dont have to keep pestering you. thanks. still got to put up pictures. it's the same thing though, just i got a 450es2000. i had to hand drill mine out. i stayed close, within perimeters. i'll need some fine thread screws, nuts, washers, and lock washer's. not much sidewall, on the housing. woof!!! ->[hey, long island]
 
  • Like
Reactions: Goober
#10 ·
i subscribed to it this time, so i dont have to keep pestering you. thanks. still got to put up pictures. it's the same thing though, just i got a 450es2000. i had to hand drill mine out. i stayed close, within perimeters. i'll need some fine thread screws, nuts, washers, and lock washer's. not much sidewall, on the housing. woof!!! ->[hey, long island]
Good job Ted heck yeah let’s see some pics. You mentioned that petcock was only 3 years old?
 
#11 · (Edited)
i subscribed to it this time, so i dont have to keep pestering you. thanks. still got to put up pictures. it's the same thing though, just i got a 450es2000. i had to hand drill mine out. i stayed close, within perimeters. i'll need some fine thread screws, nuts, washers, and lock washer's. not much sidewall, on the housing. woof!!! ->[hey, long island]
Good job Ted heck yeah let’s see some pics. You mentioned that petcock was only 3 years old?
the new one is less than 3 yr's old, still leak's.. i drilled the old one out with a DeWalt 20v hand drill. it looks like i made a straight shot on both sides. that DeWalt brakes to fast when it stops. it keeps loosening up the drill bits.
the DeWalt bit set i bought, aint noway's near the quality of a good cutting bit. nice small case though. it has, 14 bits, and they walk the line. it my case the dot. i dont want walking bits, i'm happy with cutting bits. i got my DeWalt setup through Lowe's.
it is lithium ion, and way light. it could be great. so it goes.
 
#12 · (Edited)
search term;

what is the search term you use, on flea bay? to get the part's? i what to make sure i phrase it right. i'm doing the old one, [got atv in 2008], and doing the newer one. i was disappointed it was leaking, but the tank was sitting in the sun, it might be my fault, sat too lo long, or the vent cap is stuck. 1st. picture didnt take well. i got a rivet gut, an a slew of rivet's somewhere, but will find a small nut,lock, an screw, at the hardware store. them wall's are thin,on petcock.
still a bit of rivet hanging around, not enough to be worried.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: Goober
#14 · (Edited)
search term= petcock rebuild. ^^^^, title +2nd picture. another Duh moment.. i found a place once before, on epray. till you posted this, i wasnt sure i put much stock in it. like the jig ya set up. 2000trx350es petcock is different, than in your pictures. ah cant be sure, but think the wall's are thinner, on mine. either over, or under 1/16. hard to hole a hand drill straight, with astigmatisms. <[E got all sort's of problems dont E].. >>>[mental]<<<
:smile
 
#15 ·
Got 2 kit's from flea bay. Moose brand. 1 for the 2000 original, 1 for the last one i bought, a couple of years ago. this time i will take pictures, in order, to make sure i put it together right..
i gotta admit, the Moose kit, looks impressive.. it was $34.10, with 2 kits delivered.. :smile
 
  • Like
Reactions: Goober
#16 ·
i got bearing grease., motor assembly grease {only bout 27 years old, but still white], and "NLGI #2 100% SYNTHETIC grease".. any special preferences, i should consider before i stick this thing back together..
i found the problem with this petcock. the gaskit with the 4 holes was torn.. i think it sit on a shelf to long, and maybe stuck to the metal above it. there was a lot of aluminum oxide also. more than a new part would have, even after 3 yrs., of use.. now i have to find tiny wire brushes to clean the inside, before i put it bake together. maybe dreamel, has what i need?..
if it aint raining, its pouring.. Oh Well.. so it goes... :smile
i been keeping snapshots of what i am doing, so others may learn.. they might learn not what to so also.. :grin
 
#17 · (Edited)
^^^^ more on what i just said..[take a bit to get use to the new format].. on the older petcock i notice grove marks on the inside. it reminds me somewhat of a record with grooves. i got the 2000 in 2008. the older petcock could be original.. but with grooves, also comes wear. i'm thinking, it may be a waste of time, on that one.. least i will have a new filter, should i need it.. i might just want to use a part off the old one to replace, something on the new one if it will swap out. more on this later, when i have a name for it..
 
#18 ·
i never posted the picture's. sorry for that. i bought a new one, that had been sitting of the shelf so long, that the insides dried up, an caused a leak. the fuel filter looked good, so i didnt remove the petcock from the tank., just used the drill, an took it apart. its important to leave the rivets in, because the screws, that come with the kit, need them. i took a fall, and havent finished this as yet, some years later. maybe 3 or 4, least it feels like that long, so i can only show the pictures, of putting it back together. i changed PC's, 32 bits, to 64 bits, and the older pictures dont translate., least, not yet.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top