1987 Honda Foreman 350D no power to fuel pump or spark. - Honda ATV Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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1987 Honda Foreman 350D no power to fuel pump or spark.

Hi All,
So I got a great deal on this wheeler from a guy who was having trouble keeping it running. In fact, he couldn't get it started at the time, said the man at the shop told him it was working fine when he brought it in to have him look at it. Well, I just so happen to have a wood splitter he was in need of, hence I own it now. Anyway, I found a stash of acorns under the old chewed up air filter and the battery was dead. I dropped a new battery in it and cleaned up the carb and it started right up. Smiling away, I would go out to the garage and run it from time to time just to listen to it purr as I repaired and painted all the plastic, put on new front brakes and replaced a cv boot. Next up is to change the gear oils and motor oil and filter. So I noticed one time it didn't want to start. Thinking it was not getting fuel, I sprayed a little ether in it and it fired right up again and kept running. I drove it around the driveway a few times and it ran perfect. Then it happened again only a few hours after it had been running. The battery was fully charged, engine turned over, but still it wouldn't start. I checked the fuel pump by taking the gas line off the carb and no fuel is coming out. And to top it off, when I tried to start it with ether, it wouldn't fire. So I pulled the plug and it's not sparking either. I think the ground to the fuel pump is good because it will pump when I over ride the positive feed with a direct wire to the battery while leaving the ground wire attached. It seems like it may be two problems at once or somehow they are connected. I have power to the coil. Anyone care to share some insight and help a poor guy out?
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 08:32 PM
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Make sure its in neutral and that the neutral light comes on, Check the kill switch on the handlebar. Then check the fuel cutoff relay. Get the service manual (linked here on the forums) if you haven't got it yet cause you'll be needing it.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you Retro! Yes, the green neutral light is on. Can you explain how I would I go about checking the fuel cutoff relay? I think I can figure out the kill switch if it's obvious enough.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info, I have the manual now. I'm sure it will be very helpful.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 09:05 PM
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The kill switch not working is one of the most common causes when spark is lost. It should have continuity in the "Run" position. Another issue on rare occasion is a pushed in pin in the CDI connector, so check all of your wiring harness plugs too. Check all your grounds (green wires in the harness) and other connections too.... thats routine stuff on a 30 year old machine.

The fuel cutoff relay gets a signal voltage from the CDI while cranking to energize it and then the fuel pump runs... The service manual has the wiring diagram for your machine and it can be used to check the relay, CDI, coil and related Ign. circuits. My machine is in a gazillion pieces right now for restoration, so I won't be able to help you much more than this. Ask questions if you need to as you troubleshoot, I'm sure someone will chime in...

Also, if your diagnosis leads to a possible bad CDI you can tap lightly on the CDI while cranking and it will most likely spark a few times.

Since you had a critter making a home in your airbox... check all of the wiring throughout the machine for chewed wires or loose connections and do a good job on any necessary harness repairs.

Last edited by retro; 04-20-2017 at 09:15 PM.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Question

The kill switch appears to be functioning correctly. I pulled the assembly apart and checked the two soldered points on the side facing the front of the wheeler and it continuity in the run position. One down!
I'll plan to unwrap all the tapped up wires, look them over carefully and locate the grounds for a look-see to make sure they are clean and connected. So far I have checked a couple easy to locate, one smaller green one connecting the fuel pump and one heavy black one on the frame to the right of the carb area and they are good. Fuses looked good too. No answer for the fix yet, but I'm still
Any help pointing out ground locations?
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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It HAD continuity after checking it in the run position. (above edit)
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 350D View Post
...I'll plan to unwrap all the tapped up wires, look them over carefully and locate the grounds for a look-see to make sure they are clean and connected. So far I have checked a couple easy to locate, one smaller green one connecting the fuel pump and one heavy black one on the frame to the right of the carb area and they are good. Fuses looked good too. No answer for the fix yet, but I'm still
Any help pointing out ground locations?
Taped up wires? Had more than my share of fixing those, so nowadays if someone brings me a machine with a hacked up wiring harness I politely refuse to bail them out. Further ahead generally to replace harnesses that have been butchered than chase cobbles and wonder... so thats how I handle the stupid ones.

If its been hacked on you'll probably have to use the wiring diagram and trace every wire to verify it goes where it belongs and fix all the twisted and crimped connections the PO attempted. Generally takes many hours with a soldering station and shrink tubing to make them whole again...

I think I saw a few harnesses on the fLeebay at a decent price if you decide that you'll need one. Good luck and hope you get her going good soon!
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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It's a miracle!!! Maybe...I think...? lol Anyway, it's working for the time being.
Thank you for sharing your insights with me Retro. I have read a few of your post and "you da man"!
As far as the taped wire harness goes, actually, the tape was just at the first 3 or 4 inches of the harness. So that was good!!!
I was cleaning around the wire connection on the ignition coil when I thought I heard my fuel pump kick on. It may have kicked on earlier while cleaning grounds, but I didn't hear it. I had the key on hoping to hear it engage while cleaning grounds and wiggling wires. Anyway, I don't know if it could still be a problem that is intermittent, so I'll leave the fenders off and keep starting it over and over for a few days. Perhaps if it's something going bad it will cut out again. We shall see. Mean time, thx again!
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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Well, that was short lived. lol I just went out to try and start it, but no go>
I did notice something that might be helpful in diagnosing the problem. I noticed (with the key on) that as soon as I unplugged the green wire from my ignition coil, the fuel pump cam on. As soon as I plugged it back in, it shut off the power to the pump again. So I turned the key off, unhooked the ignition coil, turned the key back on and the pump clicked on. Do you think the problem is in the ignition coil? I'll order one right up if that's it!
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