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Ticking from engine?

2K views 33 replies 6 participants last post by  shadetree 
#1 ·
Hi all! This is a1994 trxd type 2 200 cc. I finally got my drive chain adjuster figured out. I aligned the front end. It handles much better. However, I don't know if I'm looking for things to go wrong or if I am hearing things? I wonder if the ticking that I'm hearing on this video
(https://youtu.be/VLUw0xw7C_Q)
is indicative of something serious or if it just normal operating sound. I haven't had it started and running since last summer when it had been ridden about 6 miles after a top end rebuild.

I wonder if your ears can tell what it is. It sounds like it's coming from the top by the camshaft/valve area.

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
either valves need adjusting ?, or worse case, the connecting rod is making that sound !. when you rebuilt the top end, did you check the top of the connecting rod for play with the wrist pin ?????.
 
#4 ·
The cylinder was bored out about 0.10 oversized with a corresponding piston. The connecting rod where the wrist pin slides into was slightly oval shaped and had some scuff marks inside. I had difficulty in sliding in the wrist pin even with freezing the pin and warming the connecting rod. It seemed that there was a burr in the wrist pin hole, so I used a fine sandpaper around a socket and smoothed the hole out.
Afterwards, the pin slid in, but there wasn't any play that I could detect.
 
#6 ·
did you lift up and push down on the connecting rod when you had it torn down ?, if not ?, it may have play on it ?. the cam chain slack adjuster should be on the back side of the cylinder, held in with two bolts. there is no adjusting it, it's automatic, it pushes the cam chain guides in as the chain stretches ?, once the chain stretches to far ?, the slack adjuster won't work any more as it's reached it's limit. only way to fix this is to replace the cam chain.
 
#13 ·
you lifted rod, and can feel slack when lifting and pushing it back down ?. should not be any play, very little side to side play.
 
#16 ·
side to side play is ok, if its a little ?, but up and down play won't work. pull the top end down, take the piston off, stick the wrist pins very end, into the top of the connecting rod, lift up, push down the other end that your holding, should not be any play at all !!. if there is ?, your connecting rod at the top is bad, and will need to be replaced. but !!. before you tear it apart ?, check the cam chain for slack first !.
 
#17 ·
https://youtu.be/XY8_cR2vNlQ

I'm sorry about the camera work. I was trying to balance a flashlight and a socket wrench and the camera.

I noticed as I took out the spark plug, it was just screwed in finger tight. Don't know if that plays into anything noise-wise. Probably not. It was running fine before, just ticky.

The valve adjuster levers. The service manual says to turn them counterclockwise until resistance is met and then back off a notch. The exhaust valve adjuster(the one towards front of engine) will rotate cc until it bumps into the frame of the box, otherwise, I'm *not* meeting any resistance. The intake valve adjuster does meet resistance when I rotate it cc, however.

I'm not sure of the significance of the exhaust valve. I had the shop do a pressure test on the valves and the said they were fine.

Too much wear on the rocker arms or cam lobes?

Cam chain. there was mention of the cam chain adjuster. I took the bolts out but wasn't able to move that part at all. I wasn't trying very hard, though. There was a little slack in the chain on the front part away from the adjuster.

I haven't gone any deeper into the engine to check for rod play due to time constraints and no replacement gasket.

Thanks again!

Jason
 
#19 · (Edited)
Cam chain is completely shot.

on your video at the 0:50 second mark. you can see you removed both your tensioner hold down bolts and the tensioner is sitting there completely flush with the block.

that tells me your chain is stretched beyond what the tensioner can hold tight.

time to replace the chain. that should take care of the tick.

PS. rocker faces look decent. any reputable machine shop can reface those for you. (I would do it since your that far in.)

BTW, I would also pull the cam and inspect the rear journal. its unlikely that its worn (cam lobes look fine) but another spot to check before buttoning it back up.
 
#20 ·
Well, I wasn't able to remove the tensioner after removing the hold down bolts. I didn't try very hard to remove it, though. To move it, do you tap it with a rubber mallet, or does it come off a different way? I have to respect old metal, that's why I ask "is it ok to tap on this?"
 
#21 ·
yep, it's held on with a gasket, just tap the side, it will pop out. what manny told you ^^^, is what I was going to tell you !..lol. the cam chain is shot, the way you were poking at it ?, that's not how you check them !..lol. you check them by unbolting the cam chain adjuster from the cylinder, break them loose, they auto extend, then you try putting it right back in, if it goes all the way to the cylinder ?, then your cam chain has reached it's service limit, and needs to be replaced. as for the other thing I wanted to ask you ?, on the rocker faces ?, are they dished inwards in the middle any ?, they looked like they were to me ?, hard to tell ?, if they are dished ?, then they are bad !.
 
#22 ·
Why would the rocker adjusting lever on the exhaust side not meet any resistance when rotating it? I have the piston at TDC on the compression phase, I think. At least, I felt air pushing around my finger plugging the spark plug hole prior to the Index mark on the flywheel.
 
#23 ·
prob because your rocker faces are dished ?, if they are ?..YOU WILL NEVER GET THE ADJUSTMENT RIGHT WHEN SETTING THE VALVE !..LOL. same goes for the cam lobe ?, if the cam lobe is flat anywhere ?, you can't get the valve set correctly !.
 
#32 ·
You said the manual instructed to turn the adjusters counterclockwise until resistance is felt. That is incorrect unless you have left handed threads. You turn it clockwise until resistance is felt then then you back off until the feeler gauge can be inserted with minimal drag. Recheck after tightening the lock nut because sometimes they change a little.
 
#33 ·
So I'm looking at rocker arms, or the lack of them on ebay. According to partzilla, the part number is the same for both intake and exhaust rocker arms. So then captain obvious would say they are interchangeable? I found a new one, now I just need a second one.

The plastic guides for the cam chain, does that need to be replaced with the chain? If so, I might have to space out my purchases a little bit (40-50$ for one guide).
 
#34 ·
some people change out the guides ?, I don't unless they are torn up ?, damaged ?, if not ?, I always reuse them. most times cam chain guides last a very long time, unless something caused them to get torn up ?, run them !.
 
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