I have a 2014 Honda Rancher 4x4 with the DCT transmission. Lately I've noticed more top end tapping noise so I'm going to be checking the valves to see if they need adjustment. I only have about 192 miles and 52 hours on this thing.
I did the first check on the valves almost two years ago and they were still within spec so no adjustment was needed.
I have a factory service manual so I know how to correctly check them. My question is about the adjusting of the valves if it needs it.
The part that I have a question about is where it says to "hold the adjusting screw and tighten the lock nut" How are you supposed to hold the adjusting screw and get a torque wrench on top of the nut so that you can torque the nut to the specified torque specs? Are you guys even using a torque wrench?
Once you tighten the lock nut fairly tight, can you just remove the screwdriver holding the adjusting screw and then use a torque wrench without worrying about disturbing the adjusting screw?
I do have the factory Honda valve adjusting wrench set which combines the screwdriver blade and the lock nut socket into one tool.
You can't really use a torque wrench on them because of the problem you described. Just use a box end or open end wrench and tighten the nut using your best judgement of torqe while holding the screw with a screwdriver. After tightening the nut, check valve clearance again and redo if necessary. You may have to fudge it to compensate for overshoot when tightening, but as long as you check clearance after tightening, you are fine.
Works just like a VW bug, just less access. Hold nut with screwdriver, tighten, measure again, and repeat if necessary.
What about that special Honda tool you have? Does it actually help with the tight access? I did the job without it, but really didn't like the process since space was so tight. And how much does that tool cost? Would you buy it again if you lost yours? Thanks...
Thanks for the information everyone. I won't worry about the torque wrench then.
As far as the tool itself, I have not used it yet since when I checked the valve clearance the first time, it was still within spec and I had no tapping. I imagine this time might be difference.
The tool costs about $60 so it's not cheap but I like to have the right tools for the job so I was willing to pay that much for it if it ends up making the job easier. Probably most people would not pay that much for something that they can make do with other tools that they probably already have but to me, the aggravation factor of some jobs is worth money to me and it's a one time cost. I can always sell it later if I get rid of this ATV.
The tool itself is 5 1/4" long and 1 1/2" high so it's shorter than any box wrenches I have and way shorter than any screwdrivers that I have so it should make the job easier.
I did check my valves and they were still within specs. Even though I didn't have to adjust the valves, I did put the factory tool on top of the valves and I can tell that it would be way easier to use this tool versus using a box wrench and a screwdriver due to the limited room. When I do have to adjust the valves, I will be glad to have this tool.
The valves were still within specs so I didn't adjust them so no, the ticking is still there. It seems to come and go and the ATV runs fine so I'm thinking it might be the synthetic oil since that is when the ticking started, when I first changed to synthetic last year.
Wayne
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