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400EX Pivot bolt info

75K views 83 replies 36 participants last post by  TRX2fiveO 
#1 · (Edited)
I am here to offer a little insight to my experience in removing a frozen swing arm pivot bolt on a 2006 TRX 400EX. After reading until my eyes hurt. I have come to the following conclusion. Honda did not think this area through very well. lol. After 2 days of spraying heating beating, Repeat ect ect, We were able to move the bolt a full 1/8" yes I said 1/8". lol. We broke out the last resort...the Die-Grinder with a cut-off wheel. Note: If you can't get the bolt to move a substantial distance in 8 or 10 blows with an 8lb. hammer it's not going to move. first we removed the subframe and shock, it makes all the room and easier to work... The first cut was made on the right side of the engine where the pivot bolt goes through the block (make all cuts while rotating the bolt), next we moved up as close to the swing arm on that side as possible, once you make that cut there will be about 1/4" of sleeve left to get off of the bolt, leave that for now.On the left side find you a small piece of wood another set of arms and a long prybar. take the wood and stick it just below the starter on the housing, take the pry bar and wedge it between the wood and frame now those other set of arms need to pry the motor towards the brake side just enough to get your cut wheel in there, make your cut rotate the bolt cut again and so forth until it breaks free. now Over to the left side take your cutter and cut around the edge of the dust cap like you are going to split it into 2 pieces ( you will have to rotate it too). after you cut through cut across it to remove the end closest to the swing arm. Now you have room between the frame and swing to cut the bolt. After you cut through that end remove the end of the bolt.
Almost done. grab the Swing arm and twist it upon the left side above the engine and out if your bearings are still inside you may have to pry it out. now that the swing arm is out of the way you can take a long rod and tap out the left over bolt from the engine, I was able to pry the remainding sleeve off of the right side and then remove the bolt head.
This is basically what we had to do in a nut shell, I do not recommend beating on the bolt for more than the amount I stated above. The reason why is after all that whailing we noticed that while we were beating the truth out of the bolt end we didn't realize we had actually bent the pivot gusset out about 3/8 or an inch on the brake side. SO don't do it. If you take your time and cut it out turn the bolt while cutting you won't hurt the case or anything in the area. I hope this experience will aid anyone else in removing their stuck pivot bolt, This method may work for other models but I really wasn't going to try it on the other quads in the shop..lol Good Luck.

PS. When you install the new bolt put a liberal amount of anti-seize on it, you'll love your quad later for it. lol
 
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#62 ·
Just bought a 400ex that needs some major TLC and of course I ran into this huge road block. The bolt will not even turn. I tried some PB and a 3lb hammer today with no luck. I am going to flip it on its side and attempt to seal a pipe larger than the diameter of the bolt on the threaded side and fill the pipe with 50/50 ATF & acetone which is suppose to work better than any other penetrating oils. Hopefully after a few days the mixture will be able to seep its way down the bolt and loosen things up. Maybe ill try adding some heat too. I'll then try an 8lb sledge and hope for the best.

Really hope I don't have to resort to cutting the bolt out because I do not have the tools for this and I don't want to damage the frame or crankcase. There is a welding garage close by I could take it to have the bolt plasma cut but I am afraid something will get damaged.
 
#63 ·
They won't be able to get that bolt out with a plasma cutter without damaging something else.... This is a pita to do be can be knocked out in a afternoon, a sawzall and iron/abrasives blade will only run you about 30 bucks at harbor freight, and that has worked well for me in the past. When I get another 400ex in I'll do a how-to vid on it and post it here....
 
#64 ·
Well the penetrating oil just creeps around the bushings and runs down the swingarm when the frame is on its side. I have been applying Kroil to the bolt everyday for about a week now and will try to hammer it out this weekend. I have a sawzall already, so will just need the blades if I have to resort to cuttings. I'm pretty heavy handed with sawzall so I'm a bit afraid I will damage things. Was planning on renting a demo hammer to persuade the bolt out buy Home Depot wants $75 a day.
 
#65 ·
Be careful not to knock the frame out of shape. If you really wail on that bolt it will push the opposite side of the frame outwards...

I've had the best "luck" with a big dead blow and a few good swings. If it doesn't come out or move a good amount after 10 hits, its not going to....
 
#66 ·
I've tried weeks of soaking in penetrating oil, a sledge hammer, air hammer, and finally a 20 ton press. Ended up smashing the frame and the bolt is still stuck. I stopped using the press as soon as I realized I bent the frame but at this point it is already pretty much ruined. I just want to get the engine out and save the swing arm if possible. I don't understand how this bolt can be seized so bad. Not sure what to do with the frame that is titled and now wrecked.
 
#67 ·
If you would of read the first post you could of saved a bunch of headache.... and money
 
#71 ·
You just have to keep looking. .. There are a few guys on here parting out 400exs
 
#73 · (Edited)
Did you get it out????? And how did you get it out??? After doing over a dozen or so of the dreaded pivot bolt removals I have integrated several different methods together. You can tell after the first blow with a BMFH what you are going to have to do, and it has been as easy as soak it with BP Blaster for a few days then beat it out. All the way to my worst case that involved cutting the swing arm out with a die grinder, placing it in a vise, air hammering the bolt out, and then air chisling the bearing out or what was left of the bearing. As I air chiseled the remains of the bearing out of the arm I was gouging grooves into the swing arm non intentionally just part of the process, and the whole time hoping not to break another arm. This particular job was a friend that had been planning to ride with us for over 2 months, and he was ready to go until the weekend before the big ride when just playing around in the yard all hell broke loose. I ordered the kit Sunday before we were leaving on Thursday thinking 3 days tops for the order and it's going to be a long Wednesday night. Heck no, Wednesday no bolt and bearings. Well I had a bolt from a previous job that could still be used and I had a bushing kit for Polaris Sportsman 400 (Polaris uses brass bushing and zerk fittings) the OD of the bushings were bigger than the ID of the Honda arm, but maraculassy the ID of the bushing was the same size as the Honda bolt. So we drilled the arm so the bushings would fit, and I believe I cut the length also I hacksawed 3 small cuts in different locations on the bushing just enough to barely breech the inside of the bushing (to allow for grease to enter the inside of the bushing) I used the Polaris metal over rubber seals and installed a zerk fitting on each side, and pumped it full of grease. And beyond belief to this day we have never done anything different to it. I have checked with Bossbearings in Statesville, NC and they have just about every bushing known to man, and all they need is the bolt size and the OD size and they will hook you up with the brass bushing and the metal over rubber seal to match. Damn were did all this explanation come from time to put down the beer. LOL. Good Luck All!!!
 
#74 ·
You probably should post a couple of pictures of the parts to help others that might not know what a brass bushing or a metal over rubber seal looks like. . . . but don't do that with beer involved. . we'd have a photo album. . .hahaha
 
#75 ·
No more beer for me Moose. LOL... Going to stick to my energy drinks. Wonder why it is that beer will charge me up, and energy drinks keep me at normal?? :wink:
 
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#77 ·
The kits come with everything you need to repair your pivot bearings. You will have to buy a pivot bolt though.
 
#81 ·
Thanks a lot Rurouni. Ur a badass. This was my first time doing it and I was like dang my swing arm is ruined. That's awesome.
 
#84 ·
I have one driver the fits the opening perfect even if the lip is gone on the bearing it will drive it out.... I cut the first 2 I did...but not anymore..haha

sent from MOOSE mobile
 
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