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Old 12-04-2010, 01:12 PM   #1 (permalink)
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06 TRX250EX carburetor

I just purchased a 250EX that was sitting for over a year. Battery was replaced, along with spark plug. The quad is getting spark, and it turns over fine, but it will NOT start. I suspect that the carburetor needs cleaned. The problem is, I have never worked on a 4 stroke engine or carb. I'm pretty scared to try it, so I bought the 06-07-08 honda TRX250 manual off of ebay and browsing the pages, it doesn't look too difficult, but this quad is going to my 13 year old son for Xmas. I don't want to mess anything up. I have quite a bit of experience with cars, I have all the tools needed, but no carb rebuilding experience.

1. How much of it do I have to tear apart to get to the jets to clean them? Is it required to remove the stay plate and choke lever, pilot screw? They mention that the pilot screw is factory preset, unless it is replaced????
2. Are there any special tools needed?
3. Obviously I want to replace the o-rings. What else should be replaced during the cleaning?

Thanks in advance for any help!
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06 TRX250EX carburetor-air_cleaner_hose.jpg  

Last edited by my5sons; 01-07-2011 at 01:36 PM. Reason: Added photo
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Old 12-04-2010, 01:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Welcome to the forums. I agree, it's probably a stopped up carb. Remove the carb and remove the float bowl. Remove the float and float valve and clean the float valve and the hole where it seats. Remove the main jet and slow jet and make sure the holes aren't clogged. Hold them up to light and make sure you can see through them. You will need to remove the pilot screw, but before removing, turn the screw all the way in to a lightly seated position, while counting the number of turns it takes. Do not tighten or you will damage the end of the pilot screw. Just turn it in until it stops (lightly seated). Remember the number of turns so you can put it back to where it was. Be careful not to lose the tiny o-rings, spring, and tiny washer on the end of the pilot screw. Most of the time the o-ring will stay down in the hole and you will need to dig it out.

With the pilot screw, both jets, float, and float needle out; blow carb cleaner or air through all of the passageways in the carb body to make sure they aren't stopped up. Don't forget to blow air through the carb bowl inlet and out the float valve hole. Clean any debris out of the carb bowl.

You don't have to remove any of the choke parts and you shouldn't need any special tools. Make sure you don't spray carb cleaner on any of the plastic or rubber parts, such as the o-rings. Carb cleaner will dissolve plastic and rubber.

Now you can put the jets back in and the float and float needle. Put the spring, washer, and o-rings back on the pilot screw and turn the pilot screw all the way in to the lightly seated position. Now, turn the pilot screw out the same amount of turns that you counted when you turned it in earlier. That will put the pilot screw back to it's original position. Put the float bowl back on and reinstall the carb.
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Old 12-04-2010, 02:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks Helmut. I will likely take photos of the whole process and post them online for others, I'll definitely give thanks to you for giving me the courage! . The Honda Dealer wants $65 for cleaning if I bring them the carb, and $95, if I bring them the quad. I think I'll be safe to try this myself.

1. Is there a special Carb Cleaner you recommend, like Throttle Body Cleaner instead of Carb Cleaner or something else?
2. I have heard of some people using SeaFoam, do they just pour it into a spray bottle and squirt it just like Carb Cleaner?
3. I read your post, but don't see any recommendation for replacing the o-rings. Do I need to replace them? Should I purchase a kit from Honda and replace the pilot and Float Chamber o-rings? If so, what kit do I need?

Lastly, There is an idle drop procedure in my Honda Manual. I'm wondering if this is ONLY for calibrating after a "new" pilot screw is installed. Is it a good idea to go through this procedure with a tach?
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Old 12-04-2010, 02:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
1. Is there a special Carb Cleaner you recommend, like Throttle Body Cleaner instead of Carb Cleaner or something else?
I just use regular carb cleaner.

Quote:
2. I have heard of some people using SeaFoam, do they just pour it into a spray bottle and squirt it just like Carb Cleaner?
To be honest, I've never used SeaFoam, but I think most people mix it with the gas.

Quote:
3. I read your post, but don't see any recommendation for replacing the o-rings. Do I need to replace them? Should I purchase a kit from Honda and replace the pilot and Float Chamber o-rings? If so, what kit do I need?
Some people go ahead and by a carb rebuild kit and replace them, but I always just clean everything and don't replace anything unless it's damaged. In my experience, I hardly ever need to buy any parts.

Quote:
Lastly, There is an idle drop procedure in my Honda Manual. I'm wondering if this is ONLY for calibrating after a "new" pilot screw is installed. Is it a good idea to go through this procedure with a tach?
Just turn the pilot screw all the way in and count the turns, so you can put it back where it was and you shouldn't need to adjust anything. If you forget to count the turns, then you can do that procedure.
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Old 12-04-2010, 04:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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buy the moose utility carb kit, box it up and send it to me I'll rebuild it for shipping cost,,,........Merry Christmas
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"MOOSE WAGON "
91 TRX250X aka "MOOSE WAGON"
96 Polaris 400L sport (Mrs. Moose Ride)
07 Suzuki LTZ250 (Sons)
00 TRX350TM 4X2 (Resale bike)
01 TRX250EX (TLC Needed)
74' CB360 (future FrankenQuad)
Work in progress

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Old 12-15-2010, 10:57 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I'm almost done, unfortunately I need a D type wrench to remove the pilot screw. ??????? Honda Dealer wants more for the wrench than it costs for them to clean it.
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06 TRX250EX carburetor-dirty_carb.jpg  

Last edited by my5sons; 02-05-2011 at 12:41 PM.
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Old 12-15-2010, 01:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
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ive got that tool dont buy it it doesnt work.i ended up using little needle noses to turn it.thats if its off. its on you just use the tool hoping it works.after taking the carb off once it becomes second nature.i could help with questions ive messed with mine and it still runs lol. my tools for sale wanna buy it $1.00 plus shipping
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mods-hmf full exhaust,jetted,uni air filter no lid,protaper bars,razr rear tires,amr cdi box,webcams camshaft and hardwelded rockers.

mods to come-powroll big bore kit,razr front tires,steering stabilizer,nerfs

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Old 12-15-2010, 01:49 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks, I ended up just skipping the pilot screw removal and I put the carb all back together. Cleaned it very good, soaked the jets in carb cleaner etc. I bolted it back on, and now the carb leak from the drain hole on the bottom. When I shut the fuel off, it stops (obvious right?) As soon as I turn the dial to ON and try cranking it, it starts leaking again, but only from the drain tube. I checked the drain screw and it is tight.
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06 TRX250EX carburetor-aluminum_pan.jpg   06 TRX250EX carburetor-needle_jet.jpg   06 TRX250EX carburetor-trash_filter.jpg   06 TRX250EX carburetor-needle_slow_main.jpg   06 TRX250EX carburetor-after.jpg  


Last edited by my5sons; 01-07-2011 at 01:35 PM. Reason: added photos
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Old 12-15-2010, 01:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my5sons View Post
Thanks, I ended up just skipping the pilot screw removal and I put the carb all back together. Cleaned it very good, soaked the jets in carb cleaner etc. I bolted it back on, and now the carb leak from the drain hole on the bottom. When I shut the fuel off, it stops (obvious right?) As soon as I turn the dial to ON and try cranking it, it starts leaking again, but only from the drain tube. I checked the drain screw and it is tight.
Float valve isn't shutting off. Make sure there isn't any debris under the float needle. Make sure there isn't a hole or crack in the float. You can test by shaking the float and if you hear gas sloshing around inside it, it has a leak. Also, make sure the tip of the float needle isn't damage/worn.

Before you put the carb back on, turn the carb upside down and try to blow through the fuel inlet with your mouth. If the float valve is shutting off like it's supposed to, you won't be able to blow through it when it's upside down. Now, turn it back over and try to blow through it and you should be able to. Try this 2 or 3 times before you put the carb back on to make sure the float valve is shutting off and opening like it should. When you test this, don't try to blow through it with an air hose, just use your mouth.

Quote:
I ended up just skipping the pilot screw removal and I put the carb all back together.
I don't know if that was a good idea or not, because the problem is usually in the pilot circuit, but you will soon know if it worked or not.
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You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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Old 12-15-2010, 03:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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ok, so the ATV isn't leaking gas any longer. I put everything back together and I tried and tried and tried but she wouldn't start. So I decide I would start from scratch all over again. Removed the spark plug, connected the plug wire back to the spark plug and tried cranking but no spark.

So that is what I get for trusting the guy who sold it to me. I'm feeling a bit dumb now. I guess I should have verified it myself. So now I have to start troubleshooting the ignition system. I have a fluke meter, but not sure where to start? Anything common failure in these things?
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