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Old 10-23-2010, 12:23 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Enrichment Valve question

I have an 02' Rancher. The choke/enrichment cable was stuck/rusted, so I removed everything and disconnected the cable from the carb. The enrichment valve remained in the carb body.

Is this suppose to come out with the cable, it seems stuck inside?
How does the cable connect? It has a cable barrel on the end but when I attach it to the enrichment part it just pulls out when I try to move it via the knob.

Thanks,
02Rancher 4x4

Last edited by 02Rancher; 10-23-2010 at 12:44 PM.
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Old 10-23-2010, 12:34 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Welcome to the forums. Yes, the enrichment valve is supposed to pull out with the cable. Sometimes, they will seize in the carb like yours did. When it seizes, the cable will just pull loose like you described. You may be able to spray it with penetrating oil and let it sit and it might come out later, but chances are that it won't. If you pull too hard, the top where it hooks to the cable, will just break off. The best way that I've found to remove them is to drill a small hole down through the center and screw a screw down into it and grip the screw with a pair of Visegrips and pull it out. You will have to have a new enrichment valve.

If you don't want to buy a new valve, just leave it stuck down in the carb and you can use the primer button on the side of the carb to start it when it's cold. Just pump it 3 or 4 times and it should start.
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You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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Old 10-23-2010, 12:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Helmut, thanks for the super fast response! That's what I was afraid of. I've been priming it via the button since I bought it a few years ago and decided it was time to fix it right. I'll try lubing it, but with my luck I'll need to remove the carb and do the easyout method you described. I was hoping for an easy fix (just the cable)but it seems that never happens, one thing always leads to another.

Many thanks my friend for your insight, and sharing your knowledge with us.

02Rancher
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Old 10-23-2010, 12:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02Rancher View Post
Helmut, thanks for the super fast response! That's what I was afraid of. I've been priming it via the button since I bought it a few years ago and decided it was time to fix it right. I'll try lubing it, but with my luck I'll need to remove the carb and do the easyout method you described. I was hoping for an easy fix (just the cable)but it seems that never happens, one thing always leads to another.

Many thanks my friend for your insight, and sharing your knowledge with us.

02Rancher
You're welcome, glad to help.
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Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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Old 10-23-2010, 02:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yep, you were right, lube didn't work. I tried to grip the brass with vice grips but they just broke away. I'll try the drill/screw/pull method you mentioned. Is the material metal or plastic that I'm drilling in to? I can't tell since it's inside the carb body, if plastic, I'm worried I might strip the screw out when I pull on it.

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Old 10-23-2010, 03:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I believe those enrichment valves are made out of brass.
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Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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Old 10-23-2010, 08:28 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I have gotten things like that freed up by giving them a good soaking in a GOOD penetrant(not WD40), and then hitting it with a vibrator--like an engraving tool. The penetrant plus the vibration will quite often free up the item. This is good for small things only.
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Old 10-23-2010, 08:37 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I have gotten things like that freed up by giving them a good soaking in a GOOD penetrant(not WD40), and then hitting it with a vibrator--like an engraving tool. The penetrant plus the vibration will quite often free up the item. This is good for small things only.
I never thought of that. I'll have to try that sometime. That makes sense because you're supposed to hit whatever you're trying to get unstuck with a hammer to jar it, after you spray the penetrating oil on.
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Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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Old 10-23-2010, 09:21 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I'll try that next time.....I used PB Blaster which is the best penetrating oil I've seen. It's broke now, so I have to fix it. Pulled the carb, will do the drill/screw/pull method on Monday, wish me luck. Just saw on-line that the parts are like $35-45 depending on where you buy plus outragious shipping ($9-18 UPS ground) for parts that could go in an envelope. This is going to end up being a $75. job including the new cable. I should have listened and stuck with using the primer button.

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Old 10-24-2010, 06:18 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exaviator View Post
I have gotten things like that freed up by giving them a good soaking in a GOOD penetrant(not WD40), and then hitting it with a vibrator--like an engraving tool. The penetrant plus the vibration will quite often free up the item. This is good for small things only.
And I forgot to add that for bigger objects that are rusted frozen, I use my air chisel. That sucker will free up most anything(or beat it to s*&t) For both methods I use a metal buffer to protect the frozen part from getting marked up. The engraver tool is also great for getting dyna beads in thru the valve stem.
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