96 Foreman CV axles and lift - Honda ATV Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-28-2010, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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96 Foreman CV axles and lift

Hey guys,
I have a questioned that I know ya'll have answered hundreds of times and I searched but I couldn't find much to help me.

I am replacing my 2 front 1/2 axles on my 96 Honda Foreman and thought I would put a lift on it while I was at it.
Well I'm completely lost on how to replace these things. When it broke 4 months ago I had someone walk me through step by step how to do it and I thought it would be easy. I'm finally getting started and it isn't.

I'm trying to take the old axle out. I have undone the springs, top A arm, lower A arm and removed the cotter pin on the end of 'wheel nut'. I can't unscrew the 'wheel nut' and when I try to remove the A arms they wont budge. the Steering linkage is being a pain in the a** and won't come loose either. My question is, Do I need to remove all of this? Am I making this harder than it should be or have I started something that is way over my head?

If you could point me in the right direction (another thread or a website for dummies) I would appreciate it.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-28-2010, 03:35 PM
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Welcome to the forums. First, unbolt the brake drum and remove it. Loosen the axle nut and remove the hub. Unbolt and remove the bottom ball joint from the knuckle. The bottom of the knuckle should lean out enough to push the end of the axle back through the hub. You may have to screw the nut back on and tap it with a hammer to get it started back through. Use a screwdriver or pry bar between the inboard joint of the axle and diff to pry the axle out. Hold both ends of the axle as you pull it out, don't let it ride on the diff seal as it comes out, so you don't damage the diff seal.

It will probably be easier to loosen the axle nut before you take the tire off, unless you have an impact wrench.

ADDED: Be careful not to break the diff when prying the axle out.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.

Last edited by Helmut; 09-28-2010 at 03:38 PM.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-28-2010, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cduggan3 View Post
Hey guys,
I have a questioned that I know ya'll have answered hundreds of times and I searched but I couldn't find much to help me.

I am replacing my 2 front 1/2 axles on my 96 Honda Foreman and thought I would put a lift on it while I was at it.
Well I'm completely lost on how to replace these things. When it broke 4 months ago I had someone walk me through step by step how to do it and I thought it would be easy. I'm finally getting started and it isn't.

I'm trying to take the old axle out. I have undone the springs, top A arm, lower A arm and removed the cotter pin on the end of 'wheel nut'. I can't unscrew the 'wheel nut' and when I try to remove the A arms they wont budge. the Steering linkage is being a pain in the a** and won't come loose either. My question is, Do I need to remove all of this? Am I making this harder than it should be or have I started something that is way over my head?

If you could point me in the right direction (another thread or a website for dummies) I would appreciate it.
nah..your not over your head....you just probally have never done a front end cv joint before..lol...i always remove the outter tie rod from the stearing knuckle..( hold the top of it with a wrench..keeps it from turning )...loosen the upper knuckle ball joint..about half way..do the same on the lower knuckle ball joint...with a decent hammer..smack the upper side of the knuckle where your ball joint is..don't hit the ball joint !..it should pop down..if not..soak it with some wd-40..once it pops down on to the nut..do the same on the lower..once the lower ball joint pops down..remove the lower ball joint nut..then losen the a-arm bolts on the top and bottom....remove the shock from the a-arm..( this gives you room to pull the a-arm up enough..so when you take the lower ball joint out of the knuckle..you can tie it up out of the way once you pull the axle out of the front hub..after you get the axle out of the hub..tie the knuckle up...you should have enough room to grab hold of the axle...and give it a quick yank..and it will pop right out of the differental..BEFORE YOU GET THIS FAR..DRAIN YOU FRONT DIFFERENTAL GEAR OIL..OR IT WILL POUR OUT ON THE GROUND !!!... rinse and repeat for the other side...added: remove your brake drums from both sides..lol.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-28-2010, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadetree View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by cduggan3 View Post
Hey guys,
I have a questioned that I know ya'll have answered hundreds of times and I searched but I couldn't find much to help me.

I am replacing my 2 front 1/2 axles on my 96 Honda Foreman and thought I would put a lift on it while I was at it.
Well I'm completely lost on how to replace these things. When it broke 4 months ago I had someone walk me through step by step how to do it and I thought it would be easy. I'm finally getting started and it isn't.

I'm trying to take the old axle out. I have undone the springs, top A arm, lower A arm and removed the cotter pin on the end of 'wheel nut'. I can't unscrew the 'wheel nut' and when I try to remove the A arms they wont budge. the Steering linkage is being a pain in the a** and won't come loose either. My question is, Do I need to remove all of this? Am I making this harder than it should be or have I started something that is way over my head?

If you could point me in the right direction (another thread or a website for dummies) I would appreciate it.
nah..your not over your head....you just probally have never done a front end cv joint before..lol...i always remove the outter tie rod from the stearing knuckle..( hold the top of it with a wrench..keeps it from turning )...loosen the upper knuckle ball joint..about half way..do the same on the lower knuckle ball joint...with a decent hammer..smack the upper side of the knuckle where your ball joint is..don't hit the ball joint !..it should pop down..if not..soak it with some wd-40..once it pops down on to the nut..do the same on the lower..once the lower ball joint pops down..remove the lower ball joint nut..then losen the a-arm bolts on the top and bottom....remove the shock from the a-arm..( this gives you room to pull the a-arm up enough..so when you take the lower ball joint out of the knuckle..you can tie it up out of the way once you pull the axle out of the front hub..after you get the axle out of the hub..tie the knuckle up...you should have enough room to grab hold of the axle...and give it a quick yank..and it will pop right out of the differental..BEFORE YOU GET THIS FAR..DRAIN YOU FRONT DIFFERENTAL GEAR OIL..OR IT WILL POUR OUT ON THE GROUND !!!... rinse and repeat for the other side...added: remove your brake drums from both sides..lol.
You don't have to take all that off. I just take one ball joint off and I don't remove the shock or loosen the a-arms. You can take the top ball joint loose and the tie rod end loose and let the knuckle fall forward and get it out or you can just loosen the bottom ball joint and pull the bottom of the knuckle out enough to get the axle out. The only way I take both ball joints off and remove the knuckle is if I'm going to replace the bearings in the knuckle.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-29-2010, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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ok guys
i got the left axle out and I just realized I now have to take it apart?
the piece i pulled directly out of the differential (surprisingly easily) has three pieces. The axle going through the wheel, connected to the axle via a ball joint, and a third cannister looking thing that buts up to the differential connected by a ball joint. When I ordered a new one I only received 2 pieces (piece in wheel connected to axle). Do I need to order this canister looking thingy? if not, how do I get the old axle out and the new one in?

a little background: I had a bad popping noise, looked and both boots on both sides had been ripped for some time. I was advised that it would be easier and better long term to go ahead and replace the whole axles. That I cold order them online and it would be fairly simple.


Thanks so much for all the help!!
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-29-2010, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cduggan3 View Post
ok guys
i got the left axle out and I just realized I now have to take it apart?
the piece i pulled directly out of the differential (surprisingly easily) has three pieces. The axle going through the wheel, connected to the axle via a ball joint, and a third cannister looking thing that buts up to the differential connected by a ball joint. When I ordered a new one I only received 2 pieces (piece in wheel connected to axle). Do I need to order this canister looking thingy? if not, how do I get the old axle out and the new one in?

a little background: I had a bad popping noise, looked and both boots on both sides had been ripped for some time. I was advised that it would be easier and better long term to go ahead and replace the whole axles. That I cold order them online and it would be fairly simple.


Thanks so much for all the help!!
Sounds like you just bought the half shafts instead of the whole axle. The canister looking thing that butts up to the diff, is the inboard CV joint. The half shafts only include the axle and the outer CV joint. The whole axle includes the inboard and outboard CV joint. If the inner boot was torn, more than likely, you need the inner joint too.

If the boots on the inner joints weren't torn, you probably don't need the inner joint.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-29-2010, 09:44 PM
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Here are the procedures for changing the inboard CV joint.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-29-2010, 11:08 PM
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only one end of the cv joint comes apart..if you feal like you don't want to tackle it..it might be better just to order all new axles for your front differentals...or make sure when you order the other ends..that you get the right part !
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-30-2010, 02:31 AM
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Rebuilding the inboard joint is really not hard it's just messy. Just make sure you don't loose your balls (pun intended), when you pull the joint out of the canister they tend to go everywhere. LOL
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 09-30-2010, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by jkhuntin View Post
Rebuilding the inboard joint is really not hard it's just messy. Just make sure you don't loose your balls (pun intended), when you pull the joint out of the canister they tend to go everywhere. LOL
lmfaoooooooo..been there..done that alot of times !!..rotflmao...yeah..it is messy..thats for sure !
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