2006 rancher 350 wont fire after 2year sit - Honda ATV Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-22-2010, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation 2006 rancher 350 wont fire after 2year sit

I recently acquired a 2005 honda rancher 350 from my girlfriends father. The bike has literally been ran twice, then sat in a garage for 2 years. Obviously it wont start. I have Drained the gas and oil because they were both bad. Put a charge on the battery, checked the plug and its fine. The carburetor was a little gummed up from the bad gas but we gave it a good cleaning. But there is a small leak in the Carb drain plug. Very small leak. Breather has strong suction. Also the previous owner tweaked the carb adjustments and apprently the last time it ran it was idling but any trottle and it would die. its trying to roll over but I can't get even a choked crank out of it. It just rolls and rolls with no fire. This thing looks like it rolled off the showroom floor yesterday. Cannot figure this thing out. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I am no mechanic. Thank you!

Last edited by shadygrady; 08-22-2010 at 03:28 PM.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-22-2010, 05:07 PM
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no spark maybe coil ?

2009 Honda Rancher ES 420 fe9
Moose handgards
High lifters rear spring
itp ss212 black
25" mudlites xl's
super atv 2" lift.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-22-2010, 05:26 PM
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Have you determined if it has spark at the sparkplug? If so, pull the sparkplug out and pour a small amount of gas into the sparkplug hole. Quickly, put the sparkplug back in before the gas evaporates. Make sure the kill switch is in the run position and try to start it. If it starts and runs for a second or two, the carb is stopped up.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-22-2010, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadygrady View Post
I recently acquired a 2005 honda rancher 350 from my girlfriends father. The bike has literally been ran twice, then sat in a garage for 2 years. Obviously it wont start. I have Drained the gas and oil because they were both bad. Put a charge on the battery, checked the plug and its fine. The carburetor was a little gummed up from the bad gas but we gave it a good cleaning. But there is a small leak in the Carb drain plug. Very small leak. Breather has strong suction. Also the previous owner tweaked the carb adjustments and apprently the last time it ran it was idling but any trottle and it would die. its trying to roll over but I can't get even a choked crank out of it. It just rolls and rolls with no fire. This thing looks like it rolled off the showroom floor yesterday. Cannot figure this thing out. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I am no mechanic. Thank you!
when you say it won't fire..are you saying you don't see spark at the spark plug when you crank it ?..if your getting spark at the plug when you crank it..then your problem is with your carb...take your carb out..get a can of gum out..remove every jet from the carb..remove any o-rings before you spray the carb really good with the carb cleaner..hold your jets up to a good light..can you see through them ?..if not..take one wire from a wire brush..NOTHING BIGGER !...and work the wire back and forth through the jets..until you can see through the center of them..with a air compresser..blow out your carb..every nook and cranny of it..anywhere there is a hole..blow it out..make sure to remove the top of the carb..you will have a spring and large rubber gasket looking thing..pull it out..spray the carb cleaner down into the small holes..then blow it out with compressed air...as for your jets..if i were you..i would just buy a carb rebuild ket..and over haul the carbs with all new jets..much easier to do..spec if your tired of guessing about carb working...oh..be very careful when spraying that gum out carb cleaner..it reallyyyyyyy burns if you get it in your eyes..( i learned this the hard way )..lmfao.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-22-2010, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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its running now, after cleaning the carb and changing the plug. it will not idle without choking it. i can keep it running with a little throttle but it needs adjustment i think.

is the long black thumb screw with the spring that levers the throttle body the adjustment? or is it the small brass screw at the bottom just before the flapper?

and what the heck is the proper adjustment!? this is seriously frustrating haha
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-22-2010, 10:13 PM
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its running now, after cleaning the carb and changing the plug. it will not idle without choking it. i can keep it running with a little throttle but it needs adjustment i think.
Unless someone turned the idle adjustment down, I would say the carb still has some debris in the idle circuit. Sometimes it can be a PITA to get the carb perfectly clean.

Quote:
is the long black thumb screw with the spring that levers the throttle body the adjustment? or is it the small brass screw at the bottom just before the flapper?
Yeah, the one with the black knob and spring is the idle speed adjustment. I don't know which brass screw you are referring to, but the one in the bottom of the carb bowl is the carb drain screw. If it's the one between the bowl and the intake, that's the pilot screw.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.

Last edited by Helmut; 08-22-2010 at 10:21 PM.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-22-2010, 10:14 PM
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its running now, after cleaning the carb and changing the plug. it will not idle without choking it. i can keep it running with a little throttle but it needs adjustment i think.

is the long black thumb screw with the spring that levers the throttle body the adjustment? or is it the small brass screw at the bottom just before the flapper?

and what the heck is the proper adjustment!? this is seriously frustrating haha
first..take the carb off..and clean it like i said earlier..your jets are stoped up..as for the long screw with a spring..thats your idle adjustment..and the screw under the front bottom of the carb..that is your air/fuel mixture jet..1 1/2 turns..to 2 turns out..lightly seat the air/fuel mixture screw all the way in..then back it out 1 1/2 to 2 turns out..after this..adjust your idle screw..and make sure you have a clean air filter before you do all of this.
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