Overview of Carburetor Cleaning Procedures - Honda ATV Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Overview of Carburetor Cleaning Procedures

The following is an overview of motorcycle/ATV carburetor cleaning procedures. This article seems to have been written a good while ago and seems to have been directed more at motorcycle carbs, but most of this will apply for ATV carbs, just don't be confused if there are a few differences in your carb and the carbs that are described in the article. Most of the information will apply to the ATV carb and should be good enough to aid you in cleaning your carb and familiarize you with the parts of your carb.

NOTE: Disregard the part at the bottom of the article under "Possible Problems" where it says that the average setting for the air screw will be 1 turn out as this isn't really accurate. You'll need to check a repair manual for your particular ATV as this can vary somewhat. Also, note that most floats aren't adjustable on most newer carbs.

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Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.

Last edited by Helmut; 06-04-2010 at 10:02 PM.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-05-2010, 04:54 AM
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Good post!

recently sold 07 TRX 450ER 14/1 CP piston/ +1 valves intake & exhaust/ 208 web cam/ High Rev valve springs/ potred & polished/bored carb by DASA/ DASA Classic exhaust / Leagers +2 MX Lt a-arms/ Ohlins Lt front & Fox Podium X DSC Rear shock and LSR DC-6 linkage/LSR duel row carrier/ lsr Axcaliber Pro axle/ Pro Armor skid & rear bumper/ Hiper Bead locks/ Quadcross Pro's/ Houser +1 stem/ Precision stablizer / Pro Taper Fat bars/ ASV levers/ Quadtech hump seat. My trail ride is a 07 GRIZZLY 700 !
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-05-2010, 07:46 AM
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GReat post Buddy, maybe I can incorporate some of that with what I am doing to my carb, When You go changing the set-up of a stock engine dont expect it to be off the hook the first trial. I'm proof of that, I put this 400EX carb on my 250X holy crap what a jetting nightmare and if someone says its easy either they forgot what they did to get to the great running stage or they paid someone to do it. the key to carbs is Paitence

"MOOSE WAGON "
00 TRX400EX aka "MOOSE ROCKET"
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96 Polaris 400L sport (Mrs. Moose Ride)
07 Suzuki LTZ250 (Sons)
96 Polaris 250 Trail Blazer (daughters)
06 TRX450ER aka === Under construction

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-06-2010, 04:46 PM
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Thanks for the post, I used it today and it helped me to avoid some common mistakes it seems. Non-running bike before, running bike now. Thanks again.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-06-2010, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeb99362 View Post
Thanks for the post, I used it today and it helped me to avoid some common mistakes it seems. Non-running bike before, running bike now. Thanks again.
That's good, glad you got it running.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-22-2012, 09:59 AM
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Helpful post! Thanx!!
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-22-2012, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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You're welcome.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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