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Old 08-05-2012, 09:55 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Neutral position or gear position bad. help!

I have a 2000 Honda Rancher 350, 2 wheel drive. Manual shift (no clutch). Lost my green neutral light in the middle of North Dakoda (I'm from Pittsburgh) and the quad would not start. Ended up grounding one of 2 wires comming from the top rear of the engine, got the green light, fired right up and off I went. Now I want fix it and can't (without paying the dealer) figure out what I have to fix. The dealer says that it's a Neutral position switch, that it screws in and has one wire comming from it. I found a part on the side (behind the shifter) (see pic) that screws in and has one wire comming from it but it is not where I grounded the wire to make it work. I was looking at a schematic of the engine (not a good one) and it refers to the part I grounded as a "gear Position switch". (see pic2) Two wires come from it and pass through an oil seal (rubber dohickey) one is for neutral and one for reverse. neutral is the one I grounded and it runs but neutral light stays on and the reverse light does not work even in reverse..... OK... PLEASE HELP!
Thank you in advance
Mark
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Neutral position or gear position bad. help!-p8050002.jpg   Neutral position or gear position bad. help!-p8050003.jpg   Neutral position or gear position bad. help!-p8050006.jpg  
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Old 08-05-2012, 10:40 AM   #2 (permalink)
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From what I can tell the single wire switch is the thermal switch the two wires leading into the case cover should be 1 gray (reverse) and a light green/red (neutral). . . Now the lg/r leads to a two pin connector make sure thats clean and free from dirt and corrosion. After it leaves the connector the gray runs straight to the rev lamp on the bars. The lg/r branches to the CDI and to a diode in the fuse box on the other end of the diode it changes to a soild l/g and leads to the neutral light I will say that you may have a bad connection. Also if they are like the 90s the wires clip into a spring behind the cover. . . the wire will fatigue and break there too.
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Old 08-10-2012, 10:13 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks TRX2fiveO, I should have put in more explination. Before the Neutral light went out for good; I jiggled the shift peddal and got it to light (about 3 times before it stopped working at all). I'm almost (99.999%) positive that it is a gear position switch problem but cant find a part # or description of the part in order to order or replace the part. As far as is being a connection problem; I basically ruled that out when I grounded it and got the light to work (all wiring from the part to the neutral light must be good because it works). Any suggestions?
Mark
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Old 08-11-2012, 12:08 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Welcome to the forums. Like Moose stated above, that's your oil temp sensor in the first picture with the single wire going to it. And you're right about it being a gear position switch on the 350 Rancher......your dealer told you wrong. The older models, such as the Fourtrax 300 and the Fourtrax/Foreman 350s used the neutral switch that screws in and only has one wire going to it, but the Rancher uses a gear position switch with multiple wires going to it.

Now for the bad news, that model had problems with the end of the shift drum breaking off. The end of the shift drum turns the gear position switch, so when it breaks off, it will no longer illuminate the neutral light when you shift into neutral or illuminate the reverse light in reverse. I can't say for sure if this is the problem, but it's very possible. You're on the right track, though. Either the gear position sensor is bad or the end of the shift drum is broke off.

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Old 08-11-2012, 03:11 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Welcome to the forums. The part number is: 35759-HN5-670 on the schematic they call it the change switch assembly, but it is a gear position switch. More bad news, to change the switch out, you need to remove the engine from the frame to remove the rear crankcase cover.
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Old 01-04-2013, 04:44 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks all of you for your help! I'm back from everything else I had to do in life...haha. Now it's time to fix this machine. I have done some mechanics in the past and I'm betting that with the right manual I could save the Thousand dollars Honda would probably want to repair it. Any ideas about a good manual to do this repair?
Thanks' Mark
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:02 AM   #7 (permalink)
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How hard would it be for me to get into this and find out what I have? Great pics! thanks for the help!
Mark
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:54 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIREMANMARK View Post
How hard would it be for me to get into this and find out what I have? Great pics! thanks for the help!
Mark
wellllllll...fixing it..is not hard...it's more of a time game than anything !..lol. the motor has to come out..and the case halves need to be split..in order to get to the shift drum..and change it out...sorry bro..there is no other way to get around this !. sooooo..keep in mind..when you do split the engine ?..your gonna need new gaskets where there are gaskets ?..and if i were you ?..i would go ahead and change out the cam chain while your doing this !. also replace the head gasket..valve steem seals. change out any oil seals..THIS IS A GREAT TIME TO DO THIS !. once you get the motor case split..and into the tranny ?..then it's all about how long it takes you to rebuild it...the main thing is..getting it back together the right way !. please make sure you have either down loaded a service manual from here ?..or buy one !..your going to need it !. there are certain steps you need to follow when putting the motor back together!!!!. p.s. if the motor smoked ?..change out the rings as well !!!. don't forget to hone the cylinder if your installing new rings !.
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Old 01-04-2013, 09:56 AM   #9 (permalink)
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your gonna need a flywheel puller to remove the flywheel. you might be able to remove the engine..get it torn down to the flywheel..and take it to your local honda or any other repair place ?..and ask them to pull the flywheel ?.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:53 AM   #10 (permalink)
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So what you're saying is bing bang; no problem. Is that all? Don't have to re manufacturer any wheel bearings or anything? Jeeese.. Sounds like take it to the shop!
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