TRX300 Fourtrax Rear Axle / Differential MESS - Honda ATV Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-21-2012, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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TRX300 Fourtrax Rear Axle / Differential MESS

So my symptoms are- in gear it wouldn't go anywhere. I tear the rear apart and find that the splines are stripped at the ring gear to axle shaft (more so on the ring gear side). Just about every bearing is shot back there too. Here are my thoughts:

Remove the brake drum and swap it to the other side of the axle shaft where the splines are hopefully better..

Replace all the bearings and seals.

Somehow replace the splines that the axle shaft goes through on the ring gear. Any advice for this?

I also need to replace the bearings in the differential but the diff assembly wont seem to budge! I have already removed the 4 nuts that holds it on, any suggestions?

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Splines are ok, brake bearings are shot!
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Splines are nearly gone!
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Is mud considered a lubricant?
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Last edited by AutoPartsGuy; 04-21-2012 at 05:55 PM.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-21-2012, 06:13 PM
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Yea your going to need new rear end bearings, that's for sure.

If you haven't already take off the small (8mm? I think) bolts around the brake cover.
The brakes are likely in pieces so take that off if you can and have a look.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-21-2012, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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25-2010 All Balls Racing
25-1123 All Balls Racing

These are the kits I was looking at.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-21-2012, 08:40 PM
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Well looks like your having no problem with this job......
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-21-2012, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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Where can i get the splined piece in the fourth pic?
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-21-2012, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AutoPartsGuy View Post
Where can i get the splined piece in the fourth pic?
honda 300 ring gear | eBay

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-21-2012, 09:56 PM
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I also need to replace the bearings in the differential but the diff assembly wont seem to budge! I have already removed the 4 nuts that holds it on, any suggestions?
I would smack the diff case with a dead blow hammer too see if it will pop off. If not, I would screw the 4 nuts back on the studs until they're flush with the end of the studs and then I would tap them with a hammer and it should break loose.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-22-2012, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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Helmut that worked thanks for the suggestion. I guess that's about as cheap as it gets for the splined piece on the ring gear?

I was able to remove most everything to assess the damage... pretty much needs to be totally rebuilt. The brake drum looks ok, just dirty. The brake bearing housing was corroded around some of the circumference and the brake cam so I really need another one. The splines on the axle shaft look good on the brake side so I'm going to use that side for the ring gear side (just flip it). There appears to be a bushing that the pinion rides in. Guess it will need to come out piece by piece? I'm contemplating cleaning everything up and buying bearings and taking it to a cycle shop for them to press in vs me doing it myself. Not sure if it's worth the headache, especially since I don't have a press. Here are some pics of where I'm at with this project. I work out of town right now so probably wont get anything accomplished except on the weekends..

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Pretty bad corrosion
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Needs cleaning!
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Just chip it out?
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-22-2012, 10:35 PM
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The small end of the pinion shaft rides in a needle bearing, but all the needle bearings are probably gone......they usually are. And that just leaves the bearing race that has to be removed from the case. The old needle bearing race is a PITA to get out. You have to remove the keeper ring through the tiny hole in the side of the diff case where the needle bearing sits before you can knock the needle bearing out. Even after you get the keeper ring out, it's still hard to get the old needle bearing out. To get the top pinion bearing out, you have to have a special tool to remove the lock nut. But you can make the tool by welding a deep well impact socket to a large nut of the correct side to fit down inside the lock nut. Once you get the two pinion bearings replaced, it's easy to knock the two diff side bearings and seals out and put the new bearings and seals back in.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-23-2012, 07:09 AM Thread Starter
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Helmut you are a big help thank you. I didnt even see the top pinion bearing.. do you see it in the pic? Maybe just the race is left. And you are right, the needles on the bottom one are gone, only pieces of the race are left.
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