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Honda Front Wheel (Knuckle) Bearing Replacement (4WD)

41K views 21 replies 13 participants last post by  Droopy’s_PowersportsTN 
#1 · (Edited)
#2 ·
That impact makes me jealous, lol. One thing he didn't do that I would recommend, is to always pull the seals on the new bearings and check for grease.

Never trust they will have sufficient, or any grease at all in them. I've had them shipped to me dry before, so always be sure to check. Use a dentists pick at the corner of the seal, and pull up gently. It will pop off without damaging. Then grease and push it back in by hand, and your good to go. :)
 
#3 ·
I agree, most new bearings don't have much grease in them.
 
#5 ·
Any tips on how to get just whats left (outer bearing) out? Thanks
Just find an old socket or something that's the same diameter or slightly smaller than the diameter of the outer race and sit it against the outer race and drive it out. If you have a welder, you can run a bead of weld around the outer bearing race and it will come out a lot easier.
 
#6 ·
x2, if that doesn't work you could also take a dremel with a little cut off wheel and cut a notch out of it before knocking it out. Just be careful not to cut into the hub itself.
 
#7 ·
Thanks guys. Went back out to the property to find my plow mount that I forgot to take off for thr summer. Stopped at a local atv shop (small private) got them out and new ones installed in both for $25. That's what he did. Just spot welded some booger on the race then knocked them out. Its all back togather and ready for riding tomarrow.
 
#9 ·
I replaced the bearings in my 4WD step by step with the video, everything went together great but when I rode my 4 wheeler there was a loud clicking noise on the same side that I changed the bearing in, Im lost any suggestions and also the black tube (not the brake line) comining from the brakes, what is it for?
 
#10 ·
Tbetts9<<<Welcome to da forums...:icon_ devil: That loud clicking could be the cv joint clicking due to lack of grease,cracked,broken,or worn out,or not fully tightened down with the castle nut..That black tube is the brake drum breather hose that allow hot air out when the brakes get hot,the air expands,and rather than force it out through the seals,they chose to let it out via a hose...:icon_gd:
 
#11 ·
my front wheel bearing experence

Changing my front wheel bearings for first time..... they where really shot....innner racing fell out with the balls..left with outer racing stuck in hub real gooood...i went with the dremel tool idea and cut/scored inside of outer race...
I cut a bit of the hub in the backside where you dont want to hit when pounding out bearings...this obviously isn't good but how bad is it??
I know things won't be sealed as good but i just want to get riding again and would just plan on replacing hub in the near future (like 6mnths from now or so...)
What do YOU think???
 
#12 ·
The hub,or the knuckle??? A race is made of very hard steel which is hard enough to be brittle,ie smack it hard with a cold chisel,and it will shatter,or crack making it very easy to tap out,or remove in pieces...(Safety glasses are a must when trying this)...I doubt that you weakened the knuckle very much by nipping into the race journal area with a Dremel...Add a dab of rtv to the ground spot,install the new bearings(after you remove the seal,fill fully with grease,reinstall the seal on the new bearings),and new outer seals,and forget about it...:icon_gd:
 
#13 ·
damaged knucle

that's right... the knuckle...i actually cut through the outer racing and also scored behind it also..... after clearing away more grease i noticed i did more that nick the lip behind the bearing....i chewed it up in a few places.....what a donkey I am. Lesson learned
 
#14 · (Edited)
Just flip a 30 or 32mm socket and put a extension on the inside so you basically end up with a steel mushroom and use it to drive out the old bearing and race, then no risk of damaging the seal face with the hammer, wrecks an extension sometimes but I just use a cheap one I have laying around as a punch. I also use it to dive the new or cleaned and regreased bearing back in
 
#15 ·
I'm doing this now. Funny thing is that I've had this video saved on youtube.com for the last month. Had no idea it was here.

I'm a noob... read my other posts and it will back this statement. Thing is, I'm not afraid to jump in and learn.

I want to do this right. I have a question. @ around 11:45 in the video, the axle is being treated with something after being cleaned up. What is it?
 
#16 ·
I'm doing this now. Funny thing is that I've had this video saved on youtube.com for the last month. Had no idea it was here.

I'm a noob... read my other posts and it will back this statement. Thing is, I'm not afraid to jump in and learn.

I want to do this right. I have a question. @ around 11:45 in the video, the axle is being treated with something after being cleaned up. What is it?
molly paste, in other words..grease !..lol.
 
#21 ·
i'm sure they are different, as the 2wd does not have a drive axle sticking through the bearing, like a 4wd would have.
 
#22 ·
I’d like to add a tip to this thread, and this is from a mistake I’ve made in the past. It is important to clean the surface after pressing the old bearing and before installing the new bearing. Avoid the temptation to take fine sandpaper or emery cloth to the inside of the bearing bore. Just a little bit of removed metal can make the new bearings (especially inner race, seal and outer seal) to want to pull out with the installation or alignment of the outer axle hub (has the lug studs, not the knuckle). A small brass brush, a pick to clean the hog ring seat (if applicable) and some parts cleaner and patience will be a safer option. Using a telescopic bore gauge is also recommended to check for warped knuckles. I just seen this in a 1998 450 S last week. Good luck!
 
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