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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-07-2012, 11:42 PM Thread Starter
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2001 Honda Recon 250 Clutch Slipping

I have a 2001 Honda Recon 250..Ive put a new clutch basket in it and a new one way clutch bearing.. when i drive on the road it feels fine but when im on a trail and really crank down on the gas i feel the clutch slipping... i did not replace the sentrifugal clutch pads...do you think it is the sentrifugal pads?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-07-2012, 11:51 PM
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When you replaced the clutch basket, did you replace the clutch discs, too? I'm assuming that's what you meant. If so, then yes, it could be the centrifugal clutch slipping.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-08-2012, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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yeah thats what I ment..sorry.. i will say when i seen the centrifugal clutch pads..that they looked like burnt up bricks.. chipped away
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-08-2012, 11:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lilhunter1982 View Post
yeah thats what I ment..sorry.. i will say when i seen the centrifugal clutch pads..that they looked like burnt up bricks.. chipped away
Yeah, it sounds like they've been slipping. You can measure how much lining is left on them. The service manual lists the specs. Also, check the inside of your clutch drum for excessive grooving where the clutch blocks engage.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-12-2012, 03:08 AM Thread Starter
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well i figured out the problem... i mean i figured that its the clutch plates slipping.. silly me put motor oil in my atv insted of atv oil.... so now im replacing the discs once again
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-12-2012, 10:48 AM
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Soak the new discs in wet clutch approved dino oil for 24 hours prior to installing them,and scuff the steels with a scotch brite pad before you put it all back together,or it'll likely slip again,and not hold as well,or as long as it should...More than likely the slipping new plates caused a glaze to build up on the steels,and it has to be removed,or you'll be on another set of discs pretty quickly...

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-12-2012, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deeperinthabush View Post
Soak the new discs in wet clutch approved dino oil for 24 hours prior to installing them,and scuff the steels with a scotch brite pad before you put it all back together,or it'll likely slip again,and not hold as well,or as long as it should...More than likely the slipping new plates caused a glaze to build up on the steels,and it has to be removed,or you'll be on another set of discs pretty quickly...
X2, that's how I do it, too.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-16-2012, 12:25 AM Thread Starter
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I ordered new discs and new steels...they should be in today...i also bought honda 10/40 atv oil.... i had already planned on soaking the plates for 24 hrs...do i still need to scuff the new steels? im figuring yes
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-16-2012, 01:04 AM
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You wouldn't have to scuff the new plates, but it wouldn't hurt anything either.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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