oil on the 300 engine?

[glindy]

Thought the oily engine was a gasket leak like the last one. Just finished reworking the rear axle and was going to take a ride after changing the oil.

Pulled the plug and knew I had problems. As the pics tell some people shouldn't own tools,nothing like an oversize coarse threaded bolt forced into cast aluminum.

Best way to weld up?
grind down flat and weld a fine thread aluminum nut on it to match oil nut.

put nut in hole and built up with aluminum around it,then tap oil to oil plug threads?

[shadetree]

Originally Posted by glindy

Thought the oily engine was a gasket leak like the last one. Just finished reworking the rear axle and was going to take a ride after changing the oil.

Pulled the plug and knew I had problems. As the pics tell some people shouldn't own tools,nothing like an oversize coarse threaded bolt forced into cast aluminum.

Best way to weld up?
grind down flat and weld a fine thread aluminum nut on it to match oil nut.

put nut in hole and built up with aluminum around it,then tap oil to oil plug threads?

man..that has to be one of the worst bolt holes i've ever seen !..i'm not sure cast aluminum can even be welded ??.

[glindy]

Brother in law has a tig welder with argon/ aluminum spool gun to do it. Just did a cast head with it not pretty but it is solid.

[Manny]

it can be tig welded. i would go with the route you suggested. its definitely worth a shot. just make sure nothing broke off in the crankcase.

also, when you retap the hole, make sure to use plenty of cutting oil. (to keep the shavings out of the engine.) and if you can, dont tap it with the bike on its ass end. get underneath and tap it. (i've done this twice)

after your done flush with diesel and you'll be good as new. (this happens alot with the local farmers putting a bull hunch on all their drain plugs!)

[glindy]

OK,
Did the welding and built up the cracked area then ground it down and threaded hole. Filled it with diesel to flush out any particles,but it dripped around repair area.Put in a larger plug and rubber plug ring,still drips. Apparently air holes/fine seams in aluminum didn't get sealed good enough.

I just roughed up and coated entire area around weld with liquid JB weld to seal the fine holes,will this hold up on an atv bottom casting with oil and heat exposure and no stress pressure?

[shadetree]

Originally Posted by glindy

OK,
Did the welding and built up the cracked area then ground it down and threaded hole. Filled it with diesel to flush out any particles,but it dripped around repair area.Put in a larger plug and rubber plug ring,still drips. Apparently air holes/fine seams in aluminum didn't get sealed good enough.

I just roughed up and coated entire area around weld with liquid JB weld to seal the fine holes,will this hold up on an atv bottom casting with oil and heat exposure and no stress pressure?

i honestly don't think it will hold..jb weld is not what it used to be !.

[glindy]

Any suggestions as its hard to tell where it is seeping from? Maybe if I go over the JB with seals all and then paint it all with engine enamel to keep it in place?
doesn't seem like it would have much more vibration than a sealed gas tank would.

I have another good housing,just don't feel like tearing down engine right now,as it runs fine,figured on doing that down the road when it needs a rebuild.

[Dan G]

I'd keep an eye on it, as long as it only drips a drop or two on the ground every day I'd just watch the oil level and ride.... unless you feel like breaking out the welder again.

[bobs330]

Maybe you could take the tig torch and reheat it and maybe it could get some of the air pockets out??

[Melatv]

Clean it real good and try Mono caulking, auto shops use it on transmission pans believe it or not.