450ES carb flooding - Page 2 - Honda ATV Forum
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-11-2010, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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you're right...I run it thru my bike once in awhile...
thanks,
Bob

-update- I just found out that when it drained the gas tank yesterday, that it also filled the air box and then ran from there into the engine...so the crankcase is full of gas/oil...I actually drove it that way about a half mile out to check a corn feeder yesterday...it died on the way back. I will drain the oil and change the filter...hopefully nothing else is messed up.

-update- I didn't take the carb all of the way off but did pull the bottom off of it. I sprayed carb cleaner in it and it looks good so I put it back together. I plan on putting everything back together tonight if I get home from work in time...then it will be change the oil/filter...run a week, and change the oil/filter again...at least that's the plan. I also think I may stick a small air filter on the crankcase vent and not reattach it to the air box...it seems like a poor design that allows the overflow gas to flow thru that hose into the crankcase...?

Last edited by BowAholic; 01-13-2010 at 06:08 AM. Reason: update
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 07:30 PM
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Make sure the carb overflow hose is not plugged and it shouldn't leak into the air box. As for the screws that hold the carb bowl on, make sure your screw driver fits the screws real tight. Different tips and even different brands with the same tips are different sometimes. If one won't fit good, then try another brand. Before you try to loosen them, put the screw driver on the screw and give it a sharp tap with a hammer or rubber mallet. Obviously, the carb will need to be off to do this. A lot of times this will jar the screw and help to loosen it. If you do strip the head out, cut a groove accross the center of it with a dremel and cut off wheel and use a flat or slotted screw driver to get it out. If you don't have a dremel, you can sometimes use a hack saw, but it is a little harder to do, but can be done. I always take them off to work on them anyway, because it is a lot easier, for me anyway. It sounds like your float is just stuck. Take it out and pull your needle valve out and make sure it is clean and make sure the hole where it goes is clean and don't have any debris in it. Better to blow it out with an air hose if you can. Be careful when you pull the float out that the needle valve don't fall out as it is usually attached to the float with a little wire clip. While you have the float out, if it is plastic or metal, make sure it don't have a tiny hole in it. Sometimes you can shake it and listen for gas to slosh around inside it if it has a hole. I doubt that it will be metal, because they haven't used metal or brass in carbs in a long time. Sometimes they will be made of some type of solid plastic or material of some sort. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the great reply...

I got it back together and started it...no smoke and it seems to run good but I messed with the throttle stop screw before I knew what I was doing...now it won't idle... which it always did great before. It was dark when I got it back together so I might have something hooked up wrong...

any idea where a good starting place is for the TS screw?

thanks again.

Bob
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-13-2010, 08:01 PM
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If it is just the idle screw, then just turn it in until it idles at the speed you want. If it is a air screw, start at about 2 or 2 1/2 turns out from the all the way in position. With the engine running, slowly turn it in until it starts to quit. Then slowly turn it out until it starts to run rough. Now turn it to the midway point between where it tried to quit and where it tried to run rough. That should be close. If you have to adjust the air screw, you may have to readjust the idle screw.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-16-2010, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
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It was the idle screw...I turned it all of the way in and then backed it out 1/2 turn...problem solved...however...I only dropped the bottom off the carb and sprayed it out...the leaking is back so I have dirt under the needle valve apparently...I will pull it off again and actually take it apart this time I guess...I would hate to have to remember to turn the gas off every time I parked it...
thanks again.
Bob
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-17-2010, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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OK...everything is great now...It was nice outside so I took the carb back off...completely off this time. I cleaned the fuel bowl and then took the float off and cleaned the float valve and seat real well and blew out the fuel intake hole...and put it all back together. I did notice that a couple of the small hoses attached to the carb were cracked where they attached so I clipped them shorted and fixed that too. Got the carb back on and everything tightened back down...cleaned the breather foam filter real well with K&N cleaned and then a bucket of hot water...anyway it started with just a bump and no more leak from the overflow...so my wife is happy...total cost was "$0"...I already had a new oil filter and oil...
thanks much.
Bob
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