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Old 10-15-2011, 08:24 AM   #1 (permalink)
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2002 TRX350FM - Idle high - idle speed screw and choke not responsive

I am new to ATV repair and this used 2002 TRX350FM is new to me.

Initial problem: Hard to shift into reverse and then shifting out of reverse.

searching honda forum and looking the service manual and Clymer manual for this machine. suggested checking idle speed and rule that out. I checked the idle speed - I warmed up the machine (10min) and confirmed it is high - 2050 -2100 rpm. I believe it should be 1400 -1450rpm on this machine.

I attempted to lower the idle speed via the idle speed screw adjustment. - it did not seem to do affect the idling at all. I decided to turn the screw the other way and was able to increase the idle speed, but only after quite a few turns.

One other observation, when I pull the choke, it has zero effect on the engine while idling or in motion. The choke cable appears to be functionally normally from a displacement perspective on the handlebar side. From a performance perspective, the machines seems to run well, at least from my untrained/limited perspective. It does not bog down at high speed, there isn't a hesitation when hitting the throttle quickly.

I am thinking now that i need to go through an entire carb. clean out process which has lead me to some questions. I did read shadetree's very informative post on "carb clean out".

1. Is there any other diagnostics to look at before doing a carb. clean out.

2. how long do you think it might take for someone fairly new to doing this? is this something better left for the service pro ?

3. would you recommend doing a "carb. rebuild" at the same time since the kits are not that expensive and while everything has been taking apart ?

thanks in advance for looking at this.
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Old 10-15-2011, 11:44 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamit View Post
I am new to ATV repair and this used 2002 TRX350FM is new to me.

Initial problem: Hard to shift into reverse and then shifting out of reverse.

searching honda forum and looking the service manual and Clymer manual for this machine. suggested checking idle speed and rule that out. I checked the idle speed - I warmed up the machine (10min) and confirmed it is high - 2050 -2100 rpm. I believe it should be 1400 -1450rpm on this machine.

I attempted to lower the idle speed via the idle speed screw adjustment. - it did not seem to do affect the idling at all. I decided to turn the screw the other way and was able to increase the idle speed, but only after quite a few turns.

One other observation, when I pull the choke, it has zero effect on the engine while idling or in motion. The choke cable appears to be functionally normally from a displacement perspective on the handlebar side. From a performance perspective, the machines seems to run well, at least from my untrained/limited perspective. It does not bog down at high speed, there isn't a hesitation when hitting the throttle quickly.

I am thinking now that i need to go through an entire carb. clean out process which has lead me to some questions. I did read shadetree's very informative post on "carb clean out".

1. Is there any other diagnostics to look at before doing a carb. clean out.

2. how long do you think it might take for someone fairly new to doing this? is this something better left for the service pro ?

3. would you recommend doing a "carb. rebuild" at the same time since the kits are not that expensive and while everything has been taking apart ?

thanks in advance for looking at this.
cleaning or rebuilding a carb is really easy...even a caveman can do it !!..lol..read my sticky post on how to clean a carb..it was made for a trx300 carb..the basics are the same..there is not much difference in any other carb except the fuel injected carbs !..if you follow that post..it will guide you through the process..just remember..it will not be the same carb as yours ?..or it will be very close !!..the basics is what you need to watch for !. if you want to rebuild your carb..then follow that thread..it still will help you..if you just want to try cleaning your carb ?..then again..follow the sticky post !.
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Old 10-15-2011, 11:45 AM   #3 (permalink)
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there has been alot of members that have followed my post..and had great results !!!..and most of them are like you..have never even seen what a carb looks like on the inside of one!..lol.
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Old 10-15-2011, 11:47 AM   #4 (permalink)
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to answer your last question in your post..if it were me..i would purchase a new rebuild kit..seeing how your gonna be in there anyway !.
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Old 10-15-2011, 12:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Before you take the carb off,remove the black plastic cover (one screw), loosen off the nut on the throttle cable as it goes into the side of the carb, unscrew it anti clockwise until you get slight free play on the throttle lever,tighten up the locking nut (10mm), start it up and take back the idling screw like you did before, any difference??
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Old 10-15-2011, 12:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toyota View Post
Before you take the carb off,remove the black plastic cover (one screw), loosen off the nut on the throttle cable as it goes into the side of the carb, unscrew it anti clockwise until you get slight free play on the throttle lever,tighten up the locking nut (10mm), start it up and take back the idling screw like you did before, any difference??
^^^^^^ I agree. Sounds like your throttle cable is to tight. Does turning your handlebars make any difference? Could also be a dirty carb. Good luck!
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Old 10-15-2011, 01:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I agree with Toyota and dirtguy. I would look into the back of the carb and make sure the throttle plate is closed. You will have to use your finger to raise the slide in order to be able to see the throttle plate. The throttle plate isn't supposed to be completely closed, but it should be real close. It should just be opened slightly, just enough to idle. If it's opened too far, turn your idle screw to try to close it some. If it won't close, something is holding it open, so check your cable.
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Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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Old 10-15-2011, 01:02 PM   #8 (permalink)
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If you find that the throttle plate is closing properly, clean the carb.
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Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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Old 10-15-2011, 03:51 PM   #9 (permalink)
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thanks for the information guys.

I removed the black cover and could see the plate it was closing fine. i then turned the idle screw counter clockwise until i could see the throttle plate not hitting it. i released some of the throttle cable from the handle bar area. there was no change to the idle. Also turning the handlebars had no impact on the idle speed. I'll be moving on to the Carb. Cleaning exercise and will post back when i am done or "really stuck"....hopefully done.
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Old 10-15-2011, 03:54 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Did you try adjusting the idle screw after you backed the cable off?
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