Oil change on a rancher - Honda ATV Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Oil change on a rancher

According to the manual, you're supposed to have a torque wrench. Does anyone use one when they change their oil? I'm tempted to try changing the oil myself when it's due, but do want to mess anything up.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 05:06 PM
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I don't use a torque wrench when changing the oil, but I've done it a lot and I know by "feel" how tight to get the bolts. If you're not sure, you might want to use a torque wrench.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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I changed the oil on the 250EX today----but it's an easy process on that one. I might attempt it, although I won't have to do it for a bit since the dealer serviced it before I picked it up. Do you stick to the maintenance schedule, helmut? Or do you change yours more often than they recommend?
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 05:51 PM
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I've done mine a couple times. It is pretty straightforward. You just need to take some of the bodywork off to get to it. Just make sure you pay attention to the direction of the filter. Not sure how old your machine is, but you should examine the O ring before reinstalling also.

As for the torque wrench, I've only ever use one when installing wheels. Depending on the type of material you are working with, you kinda get used to what is needed.

Cheers!
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taxman View Post
I changed the oil on the 250EX today----but it's an easy process on that one. I might attempt it, although I won't have to do it for a bit since the dealer serviced it before I picked it up. Do you stick to the maintenance schedule, helmut? Or do you change yours more often than they recommend?
If you change it, just use a small, 1/4 drive ratchet on the oil filter cover bolts and there will be less chance of over tightening the bolts and breaking one off or stripping the threads. Remember, you can always go back and tighten the bolts if you have a leak, but if you break one off or strip it, then you've got a problem. Also, be sure that you don't put the oil filter in backwards or you will damage the engine. If you have the model with the auto transmission, the filter goes in exactly opposite as the filter in the S/ES models, so be careful there.

I try to keep my oil changed like recommended by the maintenance schedule, or close anyway, but I don't change it more often than recommended.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 06:29 PM
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i use a torque wrench on the oil plug of my 300ex but not the oil filter cover bolts those dont need to be very tight at all, the plug i do it as peace of mind that its not going to fall out
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 06:45 PM
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on my 96 i just to it by feel just not make them real tight
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taxman View Post
According to the manual, you're supposed to have a torque wrench. Does anyone use one when they change their oil? I'm tempted to try changing the oil myself when it's due, but do want to mess anything up.
I use a torque wrench. Aluminum scares me. A simple beam torque wrench from Sears or an auto parts store is only $25.00. I never used a torque wrench on a car...ever. I have been changing car oil since about 1990.

The first time I changed the oil in my 450er, I was scared to tighten it and didn't tighten it down enough and it leaked on the garage floor. I grabbed my torque wrench and tightened it down to specs and it's been 100% leak free ever since.

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1996 TRX300FW - ITP Mudlites Warn XT25 (Current Project)
2001 Suzuki LT A50
2003 TRX300EX
2006 Polaris Sportsman 90 - 2 inch lift
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2007 Suzuki King Quad 700 4x4 - ITP Mudlite XL
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 08:50 PM
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Do you stick to the maintenance schedule, helmut? Or do you change yours more often than they recommend?
I went for 4 days in Georgia. Camping and 4 wheeling. The oil gets changed when we come home, along with grease, air filter cleaning, inspection etc. Especially in dusty environment we were riding in. It really depends on the amount of dirt, water, mud and whatever else you are doing that should dictate time between oil changes and other maintenance.

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> Click Here for Answers to Cleaning, Compression, Jetting, Carb Issues, Model Specific problems etc.

>> Click Here to Download your Service/Repair Manual



1996 TRX300FW - ITP Mudlites Warn XT25 (Current Project)
2001 Suzuki LT A50
2003 TRX300EX
2006 Polaris Sportsman 90 - 2 inch lift
2006 TRX250EX - Maxxis Razrs
2007 Suzuki King Quad 700 4x4 - ITP Mudlite XL
2008 TRX450ER - No Lid, HRC Kit, 162 Main, 45 pilot, 55 leak jet

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-23-2011, 09:44 PM
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After seeing someone's picture posted a couple months ago of the broken aluminum casting that contains the oil bolt threads on a 420 (I think) I went out and bought a torque wrench suitable for the torqing ranges of the oil plug, diff plugs etc. It doesn't go high enough for wheel nuts but did everything else okay. I was scared I'd overtighten and break something.

I have followed Honda's fluid change intervals give or take. Been using full synthetic oil (Shell Rotella T6 5W-40, JASO MA) since the 100 mile change and stays clean over the 600 mile intervals. Now 2500 miles.

4 HONDAS 4 ME
07 Rincon... 26" Mud Bug Rs, 1 1/2" spacers, 2500# Runva winch, Kimpex box, Moose skid plate
07 Rancher 420....Type 5 IPTs w/26" Mud Lites, Moose skid plates & A-arm guards, Viper winch, Kimpex seat, fender guards

Two 06 TRX250EXs.....Tusk nerf bars, swing arm skid plates
85 TRX125.... sadly sold


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