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Old 04-12-2011, 08:35 PM   #41 (permalink)
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You can download a free one. Get it first, then go from there.
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Old 04-13-2011, 06:11 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Today I went to the hardwar store and got a drill bit that threads the screws backwards so I got 4 out of 5 screws out. The last one wasn't as important but it's 110% stripped. Anyway The jets and the bottom half of the card was spotless. I scraped out the jets and sprayed everything with carb cleaner. I also bought a new plug. I have a hose unaccounted for under the choke lever though that idk what it goes to. Its not my overflow, unless I have two. Also is there a screw that has a tube that leads to a spring that controlls how rich I run? Cause I messed that all up I bet
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Old 04-13-2011, 06:50 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Have a picture of what part you are talking about?

Did you download a service manual yet? (It has detailed pictures)
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Old 04-14-2011, 03:03 PM   #44 (permalink)
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I think what im talking about is the throttle stop control knob. And the new update is it still wouldn't fire up but it sounded a little better. Then it would fire up for w second with generous throttle, rev loud, then die. Then it wouldn't start again. So I went inside and I just went out and it started it and it turned over but was poping, then I shut the choke off and it died and now it wont start again.
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Old 04-14-2011, 04:36 PM   #45 (permalink)
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And my carb keeps having little puffs coming out of the bottom. Please reply. I've had the damn thing for five days and rode it twice and had to push it out of the woods. Sucks.
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Old 04-15-2011, 09:17 AM   #46 (permalink)
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Your carb might be shot at this point. I just finished reading this whole thread. This is what I would do before anything else. Get a manual. Second, pull the carb off of the bike and place it on a clean, level surface, i.e., bench, kitchen table, etc. Follow the instructions in the manual on taking the carb apart, you will need to take more apart once the bowl at the bottom is opened up. You have jets within the carb and they can be removed. When you remove them place them on a towel and anything else that was connected with them such as springs, washers, etc. and place them on the towel in the order that they were removed. If you damaged a "screw with a tube with a spring" then replace that screw. (Sounds like your idle control screw though). And as far as "scraping jets"? Don't scrape anything. Don't even push thin wires through anything! Take the stripped carb and shoot carb cleaner into every orifice you can find and do it liberally. Wear gloves though when you do it. After it's soaked for a bit shoot compressed air through the carb an every orifice as well. Once this is done take it back to the clean bench or table then individually inspect all of the jets, needles, etc. that you removed from the carb and clean with carb cleaner...not wire or steel wool or anything else. Look through the jets and make sure they are clear. Does your slide needle have adjustment notches on the top? If so, you may need to move the clip one or two notches to lean your mixture because a black plug is telling you that you are running rich. Also inspect the edges of your float needle, they have a tendency to accumulate gunk especially if your fuel has ever been contaminated. Now, following the manual, put everything back together and pay close attention to your float needle and make sure it slides up and down without grabbing anywhere before you place the bowl on and button it up. The manual will also tell you how many turns out you should make for the fuel/air mixture screw. This is a starting point but should be close to where you need to be. If your hose clamp screws are shot, replace them. Put the carb back on the motor making sure that everything is tight to prevent any air leaks.
Before putting the fuel line onto the carb open the gas cap and look inside the tank with a flashight and see if you can see any debris at the bottom or floating around. If you do, drain the tank, pull the petcock assembly out of the tank and clean the filter screen. Swirl some clean fuel into the tank and drain again, making sure all debris is out. Re attach the petcock assembly and check the fuel line for clogs. Also check your fuel cap air line for clogs.
Clean your spark plug or replace it then once everything it buttoned up try starting it. It may need the choke at first but once it starts up you shouldnt have to use full choke and should be able to go half choke until it warms up further. Once it's warmed up take the choke completely off. If you need to run the motor with the choke fully on then you may have some serious problems with that carb. You may just need to get a complete rebuild kit for it or find one cheap on ebay.
Hope this helps!
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Old 04-15-2011, 12:33 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Sounds to me like you might have several issues going on simultaneously...1st thing you need to do is ascertain that the battery is actually good,and then make certain it is fully charged(Just because a battery is new does not make it a good hot battery,they sell duds in everything)...2nd is the starter problem which may be caused by the 1st...You should not be hearing the solenoid clicking when you go to start it unless the battery is weak/dying as the starter should make enough noise that you would never hear it...you can check the starter by simply hooking the ground jumper cable to the frame,(with a known hot,or good battery supplying the juikce)and touching the positive jumper cable to the post on your starter,if it doesn't spin,then it is bad,or going bad...Next thing I would do is take the fuel line off ahead of the "new fuel filter" and see if the gas flows freely,and is spotlessly clean,and smells like fresh gas if so...Then check the fuel flow after the fuel filter to see if it flows as well,or at all...If you have good fuel,and good flow at both places,then move onto the carb by checking the fuel by removing the carb drain screw allowing whatever is in there to drain onto a clean white paper,or shop towel...If you find anything other than clean,fresh smelling gas you have to remove the carb,and clean every jet,every orifice,all of the inside of the carb. itself..Check,and see what number is stamped on the main jet which is the larger jet usually closest to the float bowl as it may be too small,or too large(sometimes happens when someone puts a carb kit in,and doesn't know which size carb they have,or which jet to run in it,thinking the bigger the jet the better does not usually work out if you aren't able to get more air to supply the motor,you will actually wash the cylinder down with raw gas,and it can eventually seize up on you) ...Also,have you checked the bearings,and chain tension to see if they may be too tight? A thin walled plug socket will work,and usually the cheaper sockets are thinner,although not always...You may want to check the output voltage on your stator also to see if it is supplying proper voltage/amperage to your battery if a good/hot battery dies on you after riding for a little while..Borrow a volt meter,and a friend who knows how to use it properly if you're not used to using one...
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Old 04-16-2011, 08:47 PM   #48 (permalink)
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JumpnJ: I cleaned out the bottom half of the carb and used carb cleaner generously. I dont have an air compressor though. I took the jets out and sprayed them inside and out. I didn't clean the top half of the carb because I was hoping it'd just fire up without it. My patience is running extremely thin at this point because I spent $1,100 which is a lot to me. I put a new plug in there, I'm going to investigate the gas filter screen. Also idk what the float needle is. I did download the manual but I didn't find really anything I was looking for.
Deeper: The battery is good, I charged it twice. I did the trick with the started and it was good. Are you saying if good gas comes out of that screw then I dont have to take everything back apart? I don't have time for much anymore between school and work. The guy said the bearings are new.
As a side note the inside of the carb looked brand new. Everything was clean and not miscolored or anything. I checked out the gas tank and everything looks right. Thanks for your reply's. I'm getting toward the end of my rope here, how much do you think a professional would charge me to do the work?
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Old 04-16-2011, 09:12 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Old 04-17-2011, 10:24 AM   #50 (permalink)
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Thanks for the vid. I did all of that but im asking if I have to take off the top plate because i have a flat plate on top of my carb.
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