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Old 07-15-2016, 11:32 PM   #81 (permalink)
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it seems good so far. it starts better, though there is a hint of skip every so often. it is a lot smoother with gas and shifting. on the asphalt, with slight incline, 43 up, 46 down. road is getting worst, i didnt want to push it much more and i am on very limited funds so i still get front end issues to resolve. i never got past 48 mph 7 yrs ago. found my clymers manual and it has good pictures of carb dismantle, with pilot screw spring and o-rings + washer as you would install them. service manual also has good pictures. neither has timing in the index or any great detail that i have found yet. you would think it would be more important. timing is everything.(Deep) (take a deep moment) in a bit i'll either confirm or deny my progress. time is relevant. ;~)
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Old 07-18-2016, 05:30 PM   #82 (permalink)
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its starts and takes off mostly; then other times; there is that skip, or it does not want to accelerate when i first give it gas, an i think the accelerator pump is not working on the carb or the vacuum advance is not working or maybe the distributor needs turning 3 to 10 degrees... of course that does not apply. i did read in the clymers or shop manual or somewhere that the diaphragm can wear, an mine looks like some wear on that cylinder part of it. near 5000 miles, which means more hours. that is my next move. nothing lasts for ever. //Ed
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Old 10-22-2016, 08:19 PM   #83 (permalink)
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rubber plug missing for carb kit replacement

i had to take carb apart because of float needle sticking a bit. my repair with paper gasket didn' pan out. plug was loosing bits of rubber do to old age. soo i took a brass flat head screw that would fit in the hole, an o-ring, that filed off the top of the screw so it barely put pressure on the o-ring, and i could tighten down the float bowl.
i had a shut off problem also and finally got a new one. something i should have done in the first place. i took the old one apart. the seal/ gasket with the 4 holes was also losing bits and pieces as it finished out its life, and heading towards the carburetor. there is a rebuild kit on e-bay for 9 bucks, its probable made in china, and that says a lot about doing extra work and time when you could just get it done. some get lucky buying from china. bad luck mostly. //Ed
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Old 11-15-2016, 02:29 AM   #84 (permalink)
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float needle leak is fixed. either the speck of dirt that was missed where it seats, or using the other needle from the shop attempt at carb rebuilding, took care of that. the o-ring/brass screw thing to replace rubber plug? the carb is not leaking. the o-ring i used for the plunger cover does not leak. hope all this holds out. the strange thing is that the atv seems quieter when it runs. it also no longer has that big, KER-BLAM back fire when you decelerate either. its a different atv. i thought that big backfire was pretty much normal for this year, from what i have read here, maybe at a couple of other sites also.[this is the place to go for the best info though]. hiccup is all but gone, though faintly lingers on. a ghost in the machine. hope all this rambling helps someone else //Ed
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