Re-conditioning a rusted tank - Honda ATV Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-31-2010, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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Re-conditioning a rusted tank

Hello all, new to the forums...

I am trying to get my 96 TRX-300 back on the road. The tank is rusted on the inside, but not through the tank. I bought a kit from KREEM to condition and seal the tank, but there is a snag. When I pulled the petcock off the bottom of the tank I noticed that there is still a steel tube inside a rubber gasket inside the threaded hole. On reading on the internet I discovered (I think) that this is the fuel filter. I looked inside the tank and there is a rubber flap on the inside around the tube. It doesn't look like it comes out the bottom, but if it comes out at all it has to. Anyone ever dealt with this before and can tell me how to get it out? I can't have it in the way when I seal the tank.

Many Thanks,

Joe
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-31-2010, 07:25 PM
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Welcome to the forums. That piece in the tank is a fuel screen and I think it just pulls out the bottom, but it's been so long since I took one apart that I can't be positive about that. I believe Fourtrax just cleaned his tank out a while back so he can probably tell you for sure when he gets back on here.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-31-2010, 08:09 PM
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Welcome to the forums! Think Helmet is right screen should pull out.

recently sold 07 TRX 450ER 14/1 CP piston/ +1 valves intake & exhaust/ 208 web cam/ High Rev valve springs/ potred & polished/bored carb by DASA/ DASA Classic exhaust / Leagers +2 MX Lt a-arms/ Ohlins Lt front & Fox Podium X DSC Rear shock and LSR DC-6 linkage/LSR duel row carrier/ lsr Axcaliber Pro axle/ Pro Armor skid & rear bumper/ Hiper Bead locks/ Quadcross Pro's/ Houser +1 stem/ Precision stablizer / Pro Taper Fat bars/ ASV levers/ Quadtech hump seat. My trail ride is a 07 GRIZZLY 700 !
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-01-2010, 07:48 AM
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Just did the one on my 200SX. It had a plastic screen that pulled out from the bottom of the tank. There is an O-Ring that sealed it to the tank and one inside the filter. Try to cover the threads where the petcock screws to if yours has them. PITA to get that sealer out of those fine threads.

C-Daddy44
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-01-2010, 08:27 AM
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I did just clean my tank, I'm pretty sure when I took my petcock off that screen came out with it. anyhow, I didn't coat it with anything so I'm anxious to hear how this works out for you. I just put some screws (you can also use BB's or what ever you have) in the tank with a little gas and shook it till my arms were like Jello then spent about an hour fishing all the screws back out. Anyway once I got them all out flushed everything out real well and added an IN-LINE filter in the fuel hose to the carb to keep any more stuff from getting to the carb.

1988 FourTrax 300
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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It took two days to reduce all the rust in the tank. I just etched the tank and coated it tonight. It takes 24 hours to set up but it looks good so far. The petcock assembly came apart in two pieces when I tried to remove it. Seems I'll be buying a new one, but hey by salvaging the tank instead of replacing it I saved the money anyway. The kit I used was by KREEM, and it sells at most cycle shops for reconditioning fuel tanks. At $45 it was a good bargain.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 06:46 AM
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Thats great! and yeah not a bad price at all. Even with that and the new petcock you are still way below the cost of a new plastic tank. Have you seen the price on those?? LOL

1988 FourTrax 300
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourtrax View Post
Thats great! and yeah not a bad price at all. Even with that and the new petcock you are still way below the cost of a new plastic tank. Have you seen the price on those?? LOL
I don't know the price of the plastic tanks, but the Honda dealer wants $627.62 for the original tank for the '88 Fourtrax 300.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 10:26 AM
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HOLY #$%& Are you serious? I'd strap a damn gas can to the rack before I'd pay that.. LMAO! The plastic ones are a couple hundred usually from what I've seen.

1988 FourTrax 300
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fourtrax View Post
HOLY #$%& Are you serious? I'd strap a damn gas can to the rack before I'd pay that.. LMAO! The plastic ones are a couple hundred usually from what I've seen.
Yeah, you can go to this site and look it up. Oh, and I forgot to add sales tax. LOL.

RIVA Online Original Parts Finder

The prices on this site are exactly, to the penny, what my local Honda dealer charges for their parts.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.

Last edited by Helmut; 06-04-2010 at 10:46 AM.
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