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Old 02-28-2011, 03:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Rincon 650 Tranny Technical Service Bulletin

"TRX 2003 TRX650FA Rincon

Cold Weather Transmission Performance

When used in cold regions, the TRX650 Rincon must be brought to normal operating temperature before usage. This model uses motor oil in the automatic transmission, which requires some time to normalize the flow characteristics. Additionally, oil viscosity is very important to the proper operation of the transmission. If a customer has a problem with shifting or climbing performance,make sure he is warming the unit up prior to putting demands on the transmission.Also make sure he is using the correct viscosity oil.Refer to the owners manual for specific recommendations.Do not use oils with graphite, moly, or "energy conserving" oil. Honda offers 5w-30 oil for use in cold climates. Use 0w-30 oil if operating the unit below 10 F. Some aftermarket oil manufacturers offer 0w-30 oil.

Warm-Up Guidelines

The TRX650FA employs a torque converter type transmission that uses engine oil as the working fluid. To avoid any possible transmission slip due to insufficient oil in the torque converter, make sure you and your customers follow the warm up guidelines listed below.

Air Temperature (50-95 degrees F)
Normal warm up--until the engine runs smoothly and responds to the throttle with the choke knob in the fully OFF position.

Air Temperature (5-50 degrees)
Warm up the engine for three minutes.

Air Temperature Below -5 degrees F
Warm up the engine for five minutes."
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Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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Old 02-28-2011, 03:29 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Thanks for that heads up..good to know!

Here's a semi related question: The bulk of my experience has been in warm weather areas. I'm still getting accustomed to these cold climates. I just spoke with a friend who rides a late model Honda Rancher. He tells me that whenever the ambient temp falls below 32 degrees (or so) that he gets large amounts of engine oil vented into his air box and drained out. He tells me that if he's not careful, it'll blow out enough oil to create a low oil level. He's basically "stuck a piece of hose" into the dipstick hole to create an extra vent. He claims that as soon as the ambient temp goes above freezing that it returns to normal? Anyone come across this?
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Old 02-28-2011, 03:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Can't say that I've ever heard of that problem before.
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Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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Old 02-28-2011, 03:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Makes no sense to me either?? Only thing I can think of is possibly moisture somewhere in the vent system that freezes and causes a blockage which creates higher vent pressures?? Like I said, not logical but I know the man and he knows what he's talking about. He said he took it to a local dealer with the complaint and didn't get any useful info from them.
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Old 02-28-2011, 04:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
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thanks helmut your alot of help! my 03' sure is cold blooded. it likes to be warmed up for at least 5 to 10 minutes before she goes good. well its 20 degrees here in idaho so that doesnt help lol

also what is offered in the 0w-30 i have never seen it. i run 10w-40 GN4 in my foreman and that does really well.
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manny View Post
thanks helmut your alot of help! my 03' sure is cold blooded. it likes to be warmed up for at least 5 to 10 minutes before she goes good. well its 20 degrees here in idaho so that doesnt help lol

also what is this 0-30w i have never seen or heard of it. i run 10w-40 GN4 in my foreman and that does really well.
I'm not familiar with the 0W-30 oil, either, but I think it's for use in colder climates.
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Old 03-06-2011, 07:39 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I think the oil's viscosity (the ability to flow) rather than temperature is the problem. Full synthetic oils help cold weather performance and also starting issues. They do not thicken and gel like conventional dinosaur oils that contain waxes and parafins. Again use JASO MA certified stuff.
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Old 04-18-2011, 10:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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As my name suggests, I live in northern Alberta and we have had way too many days where the temperature dropped to below -20 F and some days to -40 F. We try not to run our machines at that temperature but often in the oilfield we need to get the work done and weather is never something that we can stop for. Here at the shop we have several Honda ATVs: 2000 450 Foreman, 2004 450 Foreman, 2005 Rincon, 2006 Rincon (680 FI), and a 2007 420 ES, plus I have my own machine a 2008 Rincon. We have never had any problems with any of the machines in cold weather... once you get them started and warmed up (often need to use propane heaters for 20 minutes on the crank case to thin the oil enough to turn the engine over and start). We run the Honda brand oil in all machines as prescribed in the manual and once we get them running, let them run for 10 minutes to get good and warm, then giver! The Rincons are the ones you would expect to have issues with the automatic tranny but with 5700 km (3562 miles) on the 2005 and 2400 km (1500 miles) on the 2006, we have never had an issue with the transmissions.

Like any engine, the key is to have a couple cigarettes and allow them to warm up really well before you start running them. Some of the guys up here eventually switch to synthetic oils such as a 0-30 which tends to not thicken up as much as a regular mineral oil in really cold weather, but I have heard of some guys having issues with the Rincon tranny (shifting, slipping, etc.) with the synthetic oil. I don't know for sure as I have yet to experience any of these issues. I'm not plugging the Honda dealers, but the Honda oil is designed for the machine and seems to perform the best.
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Old 04-18-2011, 12:34 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlbertaHunter View Post
I'm not plugging the Honda dealers, but the Honda oil is designed for the machine and seems to perform the best.
Honda has no oil fields or refineries, the oil they sell is rebranded (with Honda's markup) from another supplier, probably Mobil. Any brand oil will do as long as it is specified for wet clutch applications. I successfully use synthetic oils in every 4 stroke motor I own. The ATVs use Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic 5W-40 with JASO MA certification, it's sold in blue 1 gal (4L) jugs as an extreme duty diesel oil in CTC and Walmart.

I have no transmission or starting cold weather issues
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4 HONDAS 4 ME
07 Rincon... 26" Mud Bug Rs, 1 1/2" spacers, 2500# Runva winch, Kimpex box, Moose skid plate
07 Rancher 420....Type 5 IPTs w/26" Mud Lites, Moose skid plates & A-arm guards, Viper winch, Kimpex seat, fender guards

Two 06 TRX250EXs.....Tusk nerf bars, swing arm skid plates
85 TRX125.... sadly sold


Haliburton ATV Association - come check out our 1000 miles of trails www.haliburtonatv.com
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Rincon tranny work

Just had my 650 Rincon tranny worked on at the dealer, they told me about the oil issues and I needed to use the right oil, but after the oil issue was resolved the oil pressure in the tranny was low in 1st and 2nd gear so they uploaded the results to Honda and they suggested that they look at the valve body in the trans, which the dealer checked and found some foreign matter but nothing out of the usual, they then replaced the valve body seals and filter, which brought the trans pressure up to normal in 1st and 2nd gear. They said that I need to run it like I would normally and let them know the results. First day no problems, but on the second day after warming up the engine and riding off the trans started to slip, which was the reason that I had it in the shop in the first place. After I stopped, slipped the trans into neutral and back into gear the slipping would stop, but the next day it would happen again, so the same procedure, stop, put into neutral, then back into gear. This has been my problem for 4 years, but only when the engine is first started for the day, once I shift in and out of gear it runs fine. So I went back to the dealer to tell him what happened and now we are looking into the clutches of the trans...very expensive repair...$1300+ without replacing the torque converter...$2000+ with it.
So my problem is will the price of this repair be worth it?? Or has anybody else had a similar problem and was the result the same, rebuild the trans?
Please advise...
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