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Old 03-05-2011, 10:18 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Need some help with valve adjustment

last Saturday i tore down my rancher adjusted the valves to .006 @TDC cranked it up and it was nice and quite again so i put all my plastic on and took it for a test drive and immediately noticed that when you give it the gas it sounds like the valves are chatering very badly but no noise at idle. today i got a chance to tear it back down and i checked and then tightend them alittle (not that they needed it) and it made no difference there is no play in the valve's until TDC then there is .006 play, i didn't have this problem before i adjusted them and i have adjusted valves before so i am confident that i adjusted them properly. any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-05-2011, 10:20 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Welcome to the forums, you found the right place!

When you say you tore it down, do you mean complete engine disassembly or you just took off enough to do the valve adjustment?
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Old 03-05-2011, 10:23 AM   #3 (permalink)
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if i remember right there should only be play in the vavles when coming up on tdc comp and power stroke, thats when they are not opening its on compression stroke.
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Old 03-05-2011, 10:30 AM   #4 (permalink)
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ya you gotta make sure your on compression not exhaust stroke
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Old 03-05-2011, 10:44 AM   #5 (permalink)
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agreed^^^^^^..only adust the valves on the compression stroke..and ONLY WHEN THE BIKE/MOTOR IS COLD !...if you still hear ticking/tapping when the bike is idleing/running down the road..then i would say your timming chain is streched.
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Old 03-05-2011, 10:45 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadetree View Post
agreed^^^^^^..only adust the valves on the compression stroke..and ONLY WHEN THE BIKE/MOTOR IS COLD !...if you still hear ticking/tapping when the bike is idleing/running down the road..then i would say your timming chain is streched.
Just to clarify what shadetree said. If you adjust the valves after you ran it around and the engine has not had a chance to cool completely, then you are wasting your time. Pay attention to what they are saying about the compression stroke too!

Like I said, you found the right place. These guys will hook you up!
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Old 03-05-2011, 11:04 AM   #7 (permalink)
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timing chain

i just tore down our foreman to put a timing chain in and noticed the tensioner was not working.guess ill buy one those too,you might check yours .
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Old 03-05-2011, 11:21 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Just to add to all the other good advice, when your turning the engine over counterclockwise to line up your marks on the compression stroke, you normally have your spark plug out, and grounded, and put your finger over the threads, and you'll know for sure when your coming up on the right stroke, you'll feel the air pushing on your finger, (and how many of us here have had it almost right to your mark and blow right past it,lol? If you stopped on your mark and their was no play whatsoever in your arms, they you didn't adjust them on the compression stroke, and thats why they are clattering so badly. If all was done right,(on a completely cold engine I might add) I agree with shadetree, and your timing chain adjuster is at its limit, or stuck. If these tensioners are set up like my Suzuki engines (I don't own one) you can pull out the adjuster, and see if theirs any clicks left on the tensioner. You fully extend the foot on the tensioner, and place it back into opening, and if it bottoms out fully your chain is shot.
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Old 03-05-2011, 12:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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alright just to clarify the compression stroke is when the piston is all the way up as far as it goes right? and i kinda dought that its the timing chain because i replaced the timing chain and tensioner about three months ago i could be wrong? i have tried adjusting it on the on both stroke's to no avail i really can't figure this one out. i also took the valve cover off and cranked it just long enough to give it a rev and they really didn't sound that loud but i don't know what else it could since it happened when i adjusted them it almost sounds like piston slap
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Old 03-05-2011, 12:46 PM   #10 (permalink)
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theoretically, you dont want to run it without valve cover on too long. to find TDC compression with valve cover off, if you have a recoil pull it and watch valves youll see them moving, when the one closest to the exhaust goes down thats exhaust stroke then you intake (closest to carb) will move and exhaust will start to close, then once they both close and pull till it gets tough your coming up on tdc when it reaches max tension and then moves around alittle and stops that is tdc comp. always check and adjust valves cold, tdc comp the reason why is this spot is there is no pressure from cam or push rods on valves and they are loose. another way to tell which valve is which, the exhaust is bigger.
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