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TRX300 Fourtrax 4x4 1995 rebuild and mods

105K views 964 replies 25 participants last post by  fishfiles 
#1 ·
while I got it apart to fix the steering shaft problem , might as well freshen her up , I am going to pull the front diff out , redo the seals on it and the transfer case out put , put a kit in the 4x2 kick out , front wheel bearings , seals and disc pads , redo the crank case vent tube , new modified front fender stays , tie the front and rear mud flaps into the floor boards and do away with the heel guards which are under the floorboards any way , maybe the extended swingarm and I started mounting the winch
 

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#2 ·
I mounted the winch solenoid , in the spot in front the tank , fairly easy to get at but the water is going to destroy it quickly ---- the winch mount plate came with a roller lead , but it would cut the front bumper tubing , I think I am going to leave it in there and weld the second roller to the front tube
 

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#3 ·
after having another frustrating day riding the 300's big brother the 450 which last burned my leg with steam and now is some times popping and spitting when wet , I decided to get back on putting my 300 back together and making it my primary ride again , the Wide Open 4x2 needed a new cable , could only find the cable sold in a kit with seals and bearings , which the bearings where still ok , changed them any way while it was apart -------- I learned something here , the grass under the 450 looked greener on the other side the fence from my rag-a-dee 300 , till I hoped the fence and fell face first in a cow turd , jumping back over the fence I realized I tore the pocket of my pants on the barb wire and my wallet was lighter after falling out

Got to ride with and test drive some new bikes this weekend , was impressed but happy with my 300 , I rode a Yamaha 2017 Kodak 700 Special Edition ( very sweet bike ) solid , smooth and very easy on the eyes with a Pearl Purple paint job and I rode a 2017 Polaris 570 ( a turd ) faster but thats about it , f-ugly looking bike
 

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#5 ·
put new bearing and seals into the knuckles , flushed the front diff and new side and input seals , new seal in transfer case output , drained and filled with new oil ,matched up new Polaris 1000 carbon brake pads in the front calipers ,installed the steering arm and steering bars , stuck the kick out in , need to re-route the kick out cable as I have the winch and mounting plate in now ----- it would have been nice if I would have pressure washed it first , but this all started with the steering bearing plate getting bent and snow balled
 

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#8 ·
She is alive , again ! Man did it feel good being back in the saddle , I would take the 300 over my 450 any day .

repaired the bent frame section at the steering bearing holder , new steering shaft , bushing and bearings , 2 new tie rods , all new seals from the transfer case to the front diff , new knuckle bearings and seals , swopped out the front diff , new carbon disc pads , all new vent hoses including crankcase hose and ran them up the snorkel , swopped out the fuel tank , rebuild the 4x2 kick out with new bearings , seals and cable , rerouted the 4x2 cable for the winch plate and mounted the winch , welded the fairlead to the front bumper , built a new sound tube from scratch , with a 400 watt Pyle amp and speakers and it jams , burned the first amp up as I didn't know about the gain knob and over loaded it , they sent me another one free and I didn't even have to send the old one back
 

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#9 ·
Looks good! I know it's not fun changing out the steering shaft bearing!!
 
#10 ·
Wheeler , the steering shaft was a night mare , don't know if you seen my other thread on the job , the PO had the wrong steering shaft in the bike , the reason was they didn't take the old bearing race out and put the new bearing right on top of the old one , the frame plate that holds the bearing was bent and I had to straighten it with a port-a-power and weld a strap to reinforce it , the steering is smooth and solid

really isn't over yet , I got the extended swing arm fabed up and ready to weld , just need to get the drive shaft extended , a guy at the house yesterday has a friend that builds them for $175 , he comes highly recommended ------ and I m looking into custom a-arms to lift the front , a gear reduction and 30 inch tires
 

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#14 ·
Made a beverage holder out of some gray schedule 80 electrical pipe , the hub is perfect size , had a bracket and tweaked it to fit the round shape
looks great !, just one problem ?, I don't see you reaching over with your left hand to reach down to get your '' cold '' one ?, and I damn sure don't see you taking your hand off the throttle to get it ?, unless your a safe driver of course !..lol. why didn't ya mount it on the left side ???.
 
#15 ·
I never drink while I am driving only while parked , you really can't as they get too shook up , there is a tag on the left side that says don't drink and drive , can't cover that , which is a funny story in it's self , that after thinking about it I won't tell
 
#16 ·
lol, well..you made sure of it, kinda hard to reach it with the left hand ?, and no throttle if ya use the right hand ?, so..yeah...no drinking while riding..lol.
 
#17 ·
The heel guards were messed up from the tires hitting the fenders , so I made some brackets to tie the fenders into the floorboards , started with a piece of stainless steel I had laying around , added some bumpers to the stays and swopped the left stay with the right to get it up higher , made a lot more clearance at the tires -------cut some brackets for the front but never installed them yet ----- also started on another project the vent tubes , it was pretty ugly the way I have the vent tubes running up along side the snorkel , so I am putting the tubes inside another snorkel and it will look better I hope
 

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#18 ·
I did a few mods to my 300 , made a 1 1/2 front fender lift kit , lifted the back fenders with some custom fender stays , took the left off , flipped it over and put it on the right side , pushes the fender up and to the front , put shock bushings between the fender and the stay , made brackets for the front and rear mud flaps and cut them and tied them into the floor boards , gives a lot more tire clearance , and made a snorkel tube to run the vent tubes into -------
 

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#22 ·
...my latest mod is small and cosmetic but makes it look better , when I first seen the stick guards painted I didn't like it , but it grew on me , also painted the 4x4 drive shaft covers on side the engine and over the front drive shaft

should get the extended drive shaft for the extended swing arm back from the machine shop this week
 

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#25 ·
Fish, next time you can use the front driveshaft from a gen1 300. Gives almost 3" stretch with no welding. Here is mine I just installed yesterday. My buddy fabbed it for me with big red rear end.
 
#28 ·
Those are 29.5 outlaws. I'll get you a front pic next time I'm out there
 
#29 ·
LBZ ----- I really like the Outlaws 2's , one of the best mud tire out there for my area , top 3 for sure , you see more of them than anything ------My buddy has a brand new set of Outlaw 2 -29.5's on his Can-Am 1000 , two week ends ago was his maiden voyage with them and it is bad to the bone and another buddy has the 28 Outlaw 2 on his Can-Am 570 , he handles it but not really , I have rode with him thru 4 difference sets of tires , getting bigger every time , you can hear sounds coming from the drive train that don't sound normal , he don't care , says he has a 5 year warranty , last weekend he bent a steering bar and ordered and installed some titanium threaded rods this week , but from what people are telling me he is going to tear up the tie rod end next , heard some say the Honda tie rod ends will fit the Can-Am and are heavier duty ------- I think the cups on the side the 2's really causes some problems on the front , my wife's 300 has 26 Outlaws and when I ride hers when I got in 4x4 and the tire hits the sides of the ruts , a root , stump , etc , the bike will try to jump out the rut and cause the steering to whip to the side and give you whiplash , I have the 26 Mudzilla's on mine and they have a small side cup but don't grab to the side as much as the Outlaws on the front

my plans for my 300 are 28's Outlaw 2's , I got the 3 inch swing arm , need the drop arms , cv-shafts and the gear reduction ( which I have one lined up ) ------------------what do you think about the guy on FaceBook , The 300 Shoppe or something like that , he sells kits that look good , expensive I think , but where else can you get it ----- know the guy who is building the 381 kits and thinking of it on my net rebuild --------

found 2 of the 86 up era 350's this week , but people want more for them , seen one that runs but smokes bad , plastics destroyed for $600 , and the other has a good rear end , locked up motor and he wants $500 , wish I had more money to play with , I would scoop up both of them , all I really want from them is the rear end and fan/cooler

Are you building a buggy? , I seen your name on a site I go to , you talked with Unforgiven ?
 
#30 ·
The only thing about the OL2 is that they are heavy. They do pull very well though. The setup on that green one is rancher shocks up front and 2" lift built into stretch in rear. I have a 317 motor built and sitting beside this one to install hopefully this weekend with 54% reduction.

The best lift is a guy named Jason Laws on the 300 FB page. His comes with heavy duty cobra axles, brand new OEM honda 500 spindles (so you can add factory disc brake) and is actually a 5.5" lift all for $1500.
 
#31 ·
5.5 inch complete kit sounds good for another project , don't want to put that on my 300 , want to stay at 28's , a 3 inch drop a-arm kit for the front ---------

you got me thinking , I could sell one of my 300 2wd's and build a big 300 and not spend a dime out my pocket , have a 4x4 1996 frame , 250 rear end , know about some 29.5 Outlaws , an engine needs an upper and enough of parts ----
 
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