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Honda FourTrax Discussions for the FourTrax Rincon, Foreman, Rancher, Recon

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post #11 of 62 (permalink) Old 09-17-2010, 06:22 PM Thread Starter
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yea the pinion shaft has some play to it. yes, i good bit i would say, more than a rear end needs.


ha i looked on ebay, 490.00 just for a 300 diff. 300 for a complete rancher rear end. diff, axle, swing arm, everything but the shock.

is it the rancher rear end i need??? i might just keep an eye out on craigslist and just try and find a parts back and swap the whole rear all together. would probably come out cheaper and have a stronger diff.

88' 300 fourtrax 2wd
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post #12 of 62 (permalink) Old 09-17-2010, 06:44 PM
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No, the Rancher rear end won't fit.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #13 of 62 (permalink) Old 09-17-2010, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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is it the foreman?? the rancher is the longitude motor????

88' 300 fourtrax 2wd
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post #14 of 62 (permalink) Old 09-17-2010, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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yea its the foreman, okay not i know what im looking for.


how much to rebuild what i have???

88' 300 fourtrax 2wd
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post #15 of 62 (permalink) Old 09-17-2010, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
yea its the foreman, okay not i know what im looking for.
Yeah, you need the rear end from an '86-'89 Fourtrax/Foreman 350 if you're going to convert it to the full axle tube. Keep in mind that you have to have the axle tube and all, not just the diff.

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how much to rebuild what i have???
It depends on if you need the gears or not. The gears, pinion shaft, diff bearings and seals, and pinion bearing and seals will run about $600 from the dealer. That doesn't include the bearing and seal in the brake backing plate. Sometimes, if the gears aren't too bad, you can reuse them. The small end of the pinion shaft is usually the biggest problem. The needle bearing goes out and wears the end of the shaft where it fits in the needle bearing.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #16 of 62 (permalink) Old 09-17-2010, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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dang!!!! and it will probably keep wearing out, my hub was welded but it is a little crooked so its probably doing a lot of damage to the diff with all the up and down motion of the tire.


and yea ive been looking at the whole rear ends, i think i have heard they are 2 inch wider and well like i said my hub is crooked so a new complete rear would be nice. i think i can swap the 250 big red rear end out too ???


but yea i think im just gonna swap rear ends with a beefer one, thanks for the year range. having a hard time finding some of them.

88' 300 fourtrax 2wd
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post #17 of 62 (permalink) Old 09-17-2010, 08:19 PM
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'86-'89 are the years that they were sold in the US. I think they were sold in Canada up until about '92.

Yeah, you're right, the 250 Big Red rear in can be modified to fit, too.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #18 of 62 (permalink) Old 09-17-2010, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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i need to get on highlifter and do some research. from what i remember the foreman is the stronger unit, and give its a little wider that is a plus. and then i think the rancher diff has the longer gears in it (thats for further planing down the road if i ever put a turbo on it) but is the rancher diff as strong as the foreman???? research, research, research.



and to top it off, yesterday, i busted the brake line or something inside of the hub, lost pressure and fluid was coming out of the hub, the hub that i cant seem to get off. haha DANG.

88' 300 fourtrax 2wd
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post #19 of 62 (permalink) Old 09-17-2010, 08:37 PM
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and to top it off, yesterday, i busted the brake line or something inside of the hub, lost pressure and fluid was coming out of the hub, the hub that i cant seem to get off. haha DANG.
If it's leaking on the inside of the hub, it's the wheel cylinder that's leaking.

Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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post #20 of 62 (permalink) Old 09-17-2010, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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the wheel has a cylinder?????? haha............no really it does?? but yea i blew that thing out....apperently you CAN lock them to tight and it just gave way. and i have no back brakes....man!!! i guess i should have just left them alone huh???? haha



disk brakes would be so cool...............but $$$$$$$$..............on day!!!

88' 300 fourtrax 2wd
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