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Recon neutral light - between 3rd and 4th gear

9K views 22 replies 4 participants last post by  shadetree 
#1 · (Edited)
I had to remove my engine cover to change the starter gears. When i put it back together it won't give me a neutral light. The wiring is correct on it. Focus on these odd symptoms:

No light when key is turned on, e-shifting into reverse gives third gear light. E-shifting into1st gives 4th gear light. So neutral is between 3rd and 4th gear as far as it is concerned.

So what did i do wrong........ i checked and the neutral safety switch is not showing ground. Idk how it could be wrong in there. Can it be improperly seated just by putting the cover back on? I took the switch out and grounded it and still didn't get a light. I also still haven't gotten the main issue of it thinking reverse is third on the indicator and 1st is 4th.

I don't know how this is affecting it, but i believe this is the issue. This pic was when i was testing the stator a month or so ago, but i think this pin is not setting properly.

 
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#2 ·
I was correct in my guess. I have seen NOTHING on youtube about this (maybe i didnt search right idk) so i made a video for people to see how it works. I must have bumped it and knocked it around putting it back in.

All is well :)

 
#3 · (Edited)
Since I have a thread here I'm just going to ask random questions. I am having an issue where if I give a light amount of gas my recon will move forward but the clutch will not fully engage if I give it a large amount of gas the clutch will grab much harder, slip less, and take off so the centrifuge clutch seems to be not locking very hard unless I give it a bit more throttle.

On the plate that covers it there is supposed to be a gasket which I do not have because when I took it off it was in poor shape so I permatex a gasket on temporarily while I ordered one which has arrived so before I put this together my question is ......has anyone heard of these having trouble fully engaging under light throttle if that gasket was allowing oil to pass it?

The reason I ask is before I took the engine apart to do the oil chain I don't recall having this issue and the only thing I did was slide the clutch off and slide it back on no changes were made and the only difference is that I didn't have that gasket which I read somewhere was supposed to be an oil gasket....... which I don't fully understand it's purpose. The whole clutch is dipped in oil and the locknut behind the plate is sealed so any oil shouldnt be going anywhere best i can tell. Does anyone understand this clutch and gasket better that can explain?
 

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#8 ·
Yes i did. I put it back together and it is still doing it. So i drove it and the symptoms are clutches do not fully engage unless you gun it and when you let off they release and the atv coasts. So it's definitely the centrifugal clutch acting up. Idk why though. It did work properly so wear shouldn't be an issue. I've done something i guess, but idk what. I put the spring side of the three ball unit back the way it is supposed to go on the clutch facing the clutch. I never took the centrifugal clutch out of the housing at all. I slid the whole assembly off, same for the clutch. Never disassembled them. Just wanted to get to the oil pump and back on again. Idk.......

I adjusted the increase decrease all the way to decrease and it did not help at all. I did notice however while adjusting it that I was able to make it to where the clutch would not kick in at all and it would stay basically a neutral even when it wasn't in neutral because it was slipping too much
 

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#7 ·
when there is a gasket ?, then you put a gasket back in its place !. as for it moving the way you said ^^^, that's the way a centrifugal clutch works. as for the neutral switch ?, long end of tang always faces the letter N stamped on the plastic switch cover.
 
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#12 ·
I'm sure they have wear. I've ordered a lot of new stuff for both four wheelers that haven't gone on yet, but in this case the shoes were functional, never left the drum, and upon reinstall of the entire assembly they are having difficulty grabbing and STAYING locked in. It would stand to reason if the grooves were misaligned this would happen, but idk how since i slid the entire thing off and slid back on. Only high rpm keeps it locked. There isn't a woodruff key on that spline is there?
 

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#14 ·
I remember that rear washer so its there. I'm stumped. If i take it apart again before i get any ideas it'll end up like tonight. Apart, no solution, back together. I will go through some pics and look for clues. I flushed the system with standard 10-40 oil to get any left overs out. I wonder if it can make any difference in its ability to grab the bell housing.
 
#15 · (Edited)
I think i know what it is. From looking at the pics i can see the clutch basket is just bbbaarreellyyyyyy scrubbing the endbell. The spacer is in there, but i think its on the wrong spline. I think it's on the clutch basket spline instead of the centrifugal clutch spline. This is likely causing a misalignment in the grooves.
 
#17 ·
Well after looking at it again this morning I don't think that it's scraping the clutch there's too much space so basically I have no idea what the issue is but it is coming apart as we speak and we will see I have taken some pictures today that are not under the flash and will not produce false images from the flash like last night so these are the before pictures and I am taking it apart right now.














 
#18 · (Edited)
Factory service tool, lol. Lock the endbell, lock the gears.





Only thing i see so far is that the locknut isnt going all the way on. Does anyone know how far back it is supposed to screw on?




Two side notes; after looking through the fsm again there is a little footnote that after 2000 there is no gasket for the oil cover only an o-ring, which is on there so i have it. The other thing is my clutch shoes are not brilliant, but they are there complete and solid so....... i guess I'll chop it up to worn shoes. They worked before i did the oil pump, but everything is together properly and they don't grab well at all.




No surprises in the drum. It is as expected.




Used shoes look like heck no matter how old so I'm not as concerned with their profile as much as their thickness. These definitely have age though. There is still a lot of material there, but ill sand them down a little and see if i can use them for a week until the new ones come. I dont see anything else it could be as to my issues.

Im surprised there isnt more groove from the drums on the pads. It looks as if they moved slightly and flattened the pads??





There is so much scraping on the sides of the shoes i thought i might had overtightened or something and restricted them from coming out freely. They probably would stick though if that were possible.



Went ahead and surfaced the drum. Should help.


 
#20 ·
for starters, your shoes are shot, second, your drum is shot. incase ya did not know this ?, a new drum does not have grooves in them when new !. lastly : please refrain from bad words in your thread/post ?, we allow some words ?, just not the ones children read ?, this is a pg forum, and we'd love to keep it a clean, friendly place for others to come too, thanks :).
 
#21 · (Edited)
Our 8 year old goes to church every sunday and hears the word hell 40 times. Not a bad word. Sorry, just isn't. Will keep the pg in mind, though. The drum is not worn beyond service limits. I went a little deeper with the resurface job and it was still within limits so that's fine for now. The pads are pretty shot, but looking at it i can see the grooves are in the pads to keep it from hydroplaning on the drum so i cut new grooves in the pads, albeit not brilliantly. This should work for a week until the new parts get here. :)




Theres no way the bell cant be grooved at all however because the pads on the recon are. It must be grooved after any use. The pads would have to be flat not to groove the bell.
 
#23 ·
when you buy a brand new bell housing ?, it will be smooth as butter, i'll bank on this !. for many years, after tearing many apart ?, I thought they were made this way for the clutch arms ?, nope !. the drum is smooth as silk when brand new !. the arms wear those grooves in them over time. when my bud at my local Honda, where he's the head mechanic for 20 or more years tells me things ?..I LISTEN..HE KNOWS HIS STUFF !..LOL. anyway, glad ya got it sorted out :).
 
#22 ·
Cutting the grooves in the pads worked perfectly it stop the hydroplaning. Now the oil is flowing through them instead of making them hydroplane they have the grooves in them now like the factory did at the beginning. So that's what it was all is well now
 
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