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Brakes & Suspension Have a question about your brakes? Need some suspension advice? Try this section for answers

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Old 09-28-2010, 08:24 AM   #1 (permalink)
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96 300 fourtrax step by step brake manual

I have no back brakes because they are frozen and the fronts are really weak. I tried to tighten the cables but that doesn't work. I have the wheels off but I don't want to just start aimlessly pulling stuff off that doesn't have to be touched. I there a step by step brake manual and where can I get it.
Thanks
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Old 09-28-2010, 05:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I have no back brakes because they are frozen and the fronts are really weak. I tried to tighten the cables but that doesn't work. I have the wheels off but I don't want to just start aimlessly pulling stuff off that doesn't have to be touched. I there a step by step brake manual and where can I get it.
Thanks
i'm sure helmut can post a pic of it..but i can give you a quick step by step of the back brakes..remove the right rear tire ( remove the axle hub nut instead of the tire )...remove the two axle nuts that are on the axle..remove the spacer..and big silver washer..remove all the brake cover bolts ( 8mm heads )..pry the o-ring from around the center of the axle where it meets the brake drum ( may not have one there ? )..remove the brake drum..iif it doesn't want to budge..remove your brake cables..and knock the brake cables arm backwards..this will put the shoe cam straight..if you got the drum off..you can watch the cam turn backwards and line up with the other side of the brake shoes..remove the shoes..you may have to remove your brake cable arm off the brake cam..most of these sieze up..and need to be knocked out, cleaned up..and greased...hope this helps.
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Old 09-28-2010, 05:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.

Last edited by Helmut; 09-28-2010 at 05:38 PM.
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Old 09-28-2010, 05:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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told ya !..lmfao.
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Old 09-29-2010, 01:28 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks Helmut! Timing is everything in life....I am getting ready to do a rear brake job myself this weekend and your pics look better than my Clymer manual. How and where is the brake wear indicator supposed to be hooked up to the brake arm?
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Old 09-29-2010, 08:18 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks Helmut! Timing is everything in life....I am getting ready to do a rear brake job myself this weekend and your pics look better than my Clymer manual. How and where is the brake wear indicator supposed to be hooked up to the brake arm?
the brake wear indicator is nothing but a roundish looking arrow with splines in the center of the brake arm hole..it just rest just inside the brake arm cable holder on the inside of the brake arm holder cam..most ppl leave them off.
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Old 09-29-2010, 06:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I hope its ok to jump into this thread as I am doing a rear brake job on same machine as original poster. If I am out of line and this is not good forum etiquete let me know. Well I started working on my rear brakes today. I was expecting a hassle to get the two big nuts off the axle. I only had one big adjustable wrench so I tried tugging at outside nut for hell of it and both backed off together as they were not on very tight at all. I also noticed there was no tapered washer as shown in Helmuts diagrams behind the inside locknut and up against the big washer so that explained why they came off so easy. Prior dope that owned this machine used some kind of liquid gasket material on the brake cover. It took me an hour to pry the cover off without bending it. Once I got it off I found the big tapered washer between the cover and the brake drum doing nothing. The cover is very badly rusted inside and the dust seal is all dried out and cracked. I followed Helmuts diagrams to the letter of the instruction and had no trouble till I removed the brake drum and saw that the prior owner smeared the gasket goo all over the big O-ring that is on the brake panel. Another 30 minutes to carefully remove it without breaking it and picking off all the dried up goo. Good news is I dont need new shoes there are tons of brake pad on them and they are actually a bit shiny and the springs are real shiny black. Question I have for you guys is the brake cover is real rusty. I used a wire brush wheel to remove most of the rust on inside rim where it will come in contact witht the big O-Ring on the brake panel; should I paint it inside with rustoleum to slow down rust? Also is there a need to apply a liquid gasket material on the brake panel surface that mates with the brake cover? Or is that the purpose of the big O-Ring? I will replace the cracked dust seal on the cover. OR should I get a replacement brake cover? Helmut- BTW I shook the hell out of the machine and the axle was tight inside the bearing no movement at all so I guess bearings are good. Thats all for now will get back at it tomorrow when I hear back on my questions.
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Old 09-29-2010, 06:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks Helmut! Timing is everything in life....I am getting ready to do a rear brake job myself this weekend and your pics look better than my Clymer manual. How and where is the brake wear indicator supposed to be hooked up to the brake arm?
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Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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Old 09-29-2010, 06:52 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Question I have for you guys is the brake cover is real rusty. I used a wire brush wheel to remove most of the rust on inside rim where it will come in contact witht the big O-Ring on the brake panel; should I paint it inside with rustoleum to slow down rust? Also is there a need to apply a liquid gasket material on the brake panel surface that mates with the brake cover? Or is that the purpose of the big O-Ring? I will replace the cracked dust seal on the cover. OR should I get a replacement brake cover?
I would probably just go ahead and paint it with the rustoleum paint, as long as it doesn't have any holes in it. I would just replace the seal. You shouldn't need any liquid gasket, as long as the o-ring is good, that's the purpose of the o-ring.
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Most 4-wheeler problems are caused by a loose nut connecting the handlebars and the seat!!

You only need two tools in life -- WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use the duct tape.
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Old 10-01-2010, 11:25 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Anyone have those pics but for the front drums!? i have a 1997 honda fourtrax 2x4 need to replace pads
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