Yukon Down, AWD delete, headers, converter etc... - Page 2 - Honda ATV Forum
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-30-2016, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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Notice the new daily driver I pictured. Ive been in this game a while. I wouldnt undergo something like this voluntarily without an alternate form of transportation. Too many things to go wrong.

06 Foreman 500 - 29.5 OG Laws, SS212s, 35%, Warn 2.5k, HL^2", <2.5">, EPI, HMF
95 Fourtrax 300 - 27" Zillas, SS212s , Viper 3k, HL^2"
04 XR80 - Stock
07CRF50 - Stock
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-30-2016, 10:16 AM
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Yeah when we had to work on our Tahoe and didn't have another dd, it was a pain in the ass even though we don't use it that much.

1993 Honda 300 2x4- Sold
Maxxis Bighorns on ITP Deltas
300ex shocks

2001 Honda 350 Rancher 4x4- Current Project
ITP Mudlites
Jet kit
K&N Air Filter
1" Lift
Led cube headlights & 9 inch led bar

1987 Honda 350d Foreman- Current I have no clue what to do with project

Redneck Math: 4x4=Offroad

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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 06-12-2016, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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So I had some transmission issues. I appears through my heavy foot I just broke the damn thing. I took it to the builder last week and he said the forward sprag was completely trashed. But, its fixed and ready to come home. Time to make the 180 mile round trip....which goes really fast when you're on a nice new highway.

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Pro1 Transmission in Texarkana AR. These guys know their stuff.

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After I chatted with the owner for a bit and loaded up it was time to head back home.

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I took the stock truck pan off.

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And I tried to install a new aluminum pan.......but it wont fit. It seems to be hitting the filter inside the pan.

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The filter support risers are obviously made for a car filter (shorter) and this has a truck filter installed. I measured the gap at the pan rail to be around 5/8 from seating on the trans...... and I don't have a car filter, so I cut the damn things off.

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Here is a pan depth measurement. Stock truck pan was 3 inches deep, and also you can see the risers after cutting 5/8ths off them.

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Success!

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Ready to slide back in. The trans jack makes the job easy when you're a one man band.

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Walmart no longer carries transmission fluid....dipshits, so I bought a case of this from the local auto parts store....and the price was actually really good.

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The new muffler.

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No performance loss here.

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I added it into the rear section of the pipe but left the bullet muffler also.

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Back on the ground and needing a bath bad.

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Cheers, you earned it!
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So the trans is back to acting right, the exhaust is nice. My impressions of the new muffler is it obviously toned it down. It is mellow and very deep at idle, it has more tone/sound now then it did before. Cruising at light throttle its actually very quiet (you can't hear it inside the truck), under moderate throttle or rpm it wakes right up and lets you know its there. Under full throttle its pretty loud, and the tone breaks up some at mid rpms (kind of what comes with a loud exhaust) but its controlled and not terrible sounding like it was with just the bullet muffler.

06 Foreman 500 - 29.5 OG Laws, SS212s, 35%, Warn 2.5k, HL^2", <2.5">, EPI, HMF
95 Fourtrax 300 - 27" Zillas, SS212s , Viper 3k, HL^2"
04 XR80 - Stock
07CRF50 - Stock
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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So basically issue after issue. This transmission has been pissing fluid out about every other drive, its been driving me nuts. I went through two new pan gaskets before I realized it was actually the electrical connector, it was pushed into the case and not sealing. I was able to pull it up and make it click in place. Its also had a funky miss going on and has been down on power. So I ordered up some stuff.

DJM 2/3 inch lowering kit from NorCalSS, and a set of MSD plug and copper NGK plugs from SDPC.

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The plugs and wires did fix the miss, and the lowering kit was pretty straightforward. Here is the stock spring vs the DJM spring for the rear.

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Here is some after pics, and my impressions of the ride are slightly firmer then stock in the front, and slightly bouncy in the rear. I've ordered the shock relo brackets for the rear to try to help control the rear end movement. I trimmed all 4 bumpstops also.

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Remember that daily driver I bought, well the friggen AC decided to act up. So here is another delay in the project. Had to remove the front clip to swap compressors.

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Decided while I had it apart to swap the trans filter, which is buried behind the front bumper.

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I also found one of the radiator fans completely broken off the shroud and unplugged. So, I setup the soldering gun in hopes of making a fast/cheap repair.

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Every single finger was broken, but I was able to re-fit them in place, then smear the plastic back together with the tip of the gun. After I was through i grabbed the fan and picked up the whole radiator. I think that will hold. Here you can see a repaired one on the right, and the broken ones around the left side.

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Yeah buddy that's the ticket.

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Hard work done, so its break time. Nothing like a good airsoft war down the neighborhood street on a hot summer day.

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Time to relax with some LSX buddies and fix some garage food.

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Hit up Test And Tune Friday night. The truck actually towed decently with the lowering kit (trailer properly loaded of course), and the new found power (headers, tune, awd delete) was really noticeable.

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06 Foreman 500 - 29.5 OG Laws, SS212s, 35%, Warn 2.5k, HL^2", <2.5">, EPI, HMF
95 Fourtrax 300 - 27" Zillas, SS212s , Viper 3k, HL^2"
04 XR80 - Stock
07CRF50 - Stock
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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So I noticed when loaded these djm springs are a little on the soft side. The stockers even with with the auto leveling not working still handled load well. I knew I needed to address this. I inquired about an air spring kit for lowered vehicles and they told me I need to measure. Once I got my measurement I ordered a custom fit kit for the rear coil springs. I figured it would be a good time to retire the probably original 200k mile shocks also.

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Here is a pic of the stock shocks with the blown out air bladders plus the compressor that was mouted to the framerail.

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Here is the rear end sagging, and the new air spring helper installed.

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I routed the lines, T'd them together and ran it to a schrader valve i installed near the hitch. They fill up really quick with the shop compressor, think bycicle tire quick.

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Driving/Towing results to come.

06 Foreman 500 - 29.5 OG Laws, SS212s, 35%, Warn 2.5k, HL^2", <2.5">, EPI, HMF
95 Fourtrax 300 - 27" Zillas, SS212s , Viper 3k, HL^2"
04 XR80 - Stock
07CRF50 - Stock
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01SSRedA4 View Post
So I noticed when loaded these djm springs are a little on the soft side. The stockers even with with the auto leveling not working still handled load well. I knew I needed to address this. I inquired about an air spring kit for lowered vehicles and they told me I need to measure. Once I got my measurement I ordered a custom fit kit for the rear coil springs. I figured it would be a good time to retire the probably original 200k mile shocks also.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Here is a pic of the stock shocks with the blown out air bladders plus the compressor that was mouted to the framerail.

Click the image to open in full size.

Here is the rear end sagging, and the new air spring helper installed.

Click the image to open in full size.

I routed the lines, T'd them together and ran it to a schrader valve i installed near the hitch. They fill up really quick with the shop compressor, think bycicle tire quick.

Click the image to open in full size.

Driving/Towing results to come.
So you'll have to manually air them up/ down?

Why not keep the OEM compressor and put a switch in the cab?
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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I dont think the stock compressor worked. I may add an aftermarket one later.

06 Foreman 500 - 29.5 OG Laws, SS212s, 35%, Warn 2.5k, HL^2", <2.5">, EPI, HMF
95 Fourtrax 300 - 27" Zillas, SS212s , Viper 3k, HL^2"
04 XR80 - Stock
07CRF50 - Stock
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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So I decided I wanted a little more performance, and towing prowess. I ordered some blue box Motive 4.30 gears, part number GM10-430 and a Ratech rebuild kit. I also ordered a Ratech solid pinion spacer. I decided a new cover would be nice also.

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Motive gears and cover.

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Opened it up and found an open differential. I wasn't too thrilled about this, I figured it had the g80 locking diff. Only thing I can figure is because it was full time awd they skipped the locking diff.

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Found a buddy who had a g80 sitting in his garage across town. So I drove over and got it. Here I was passing The Strand Theatre, it is an old and decorative building. Apparently I was missing the concert.

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Here's the g80 and the stock diff:

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Basically there are two bearing sizes for these diffs. The problem is its not just the diffs that are different its the actual housing that's machined bigger. So the deal is you have a small bearing that mates with some diffs and housings, and a larger bearing that mates with other diffs and housings. You dont know what you have until you measure it. The s10 the g80 came out of has the small bearing, and my housing is machined for the larger bearing, and they dont make a bearing that will make it work. So, back to open diff I go. I set the gears up for those interested at 10 pinion preload with no seal, 20 with seal, and 30 with carrier and backlash was about 5/6. I used a 40 shim under the pinion bearing and the pattern was perfectly centered and egg shaped, no hard lines. I was very happy with how these gears went together. I did have to bend the stock panhard bar just a tad to clear the cover.

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Driving impressions: light throttle acceleration is very easy, motor never works hard, the converter tightened up its manners and feels really close to stock at light throttle. Hwy cruise it accelerates easily without unlocking the converter. And the little bit Ive rolled into the throttle the rpms climb really quick. Cruise rpm is about 2500 @ 80, and climbs up pretty quick from there if you increase speed. The truck is on 31 inch tires.

06 Foreman 500 - 29.5 OG Laws, SS212s, 35%, Warn 2.5k, HL^2", <2.5">, EPI, HMF
95 Fourtrax 300 - 27" Zillas, SS212s , Viper 3k, HL^2"
04 XR80 - Stock
07CRF50 - Stock
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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Finally got to tow with the new bags and gears, much much better. It controlled the trailer well and accelerated with ease. Only got two passes for the night....

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I noticed over some swooping type bumps that the front had a little less control then I liked. The good news is I have had new parts on the shelf waiting for a while. I figured, well, time to wipe the dust off them and get them installed.

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Part numbers for upper balljoints, lower balljoints, outer tie rods, and shocks.

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Right now Im lowered on the stock keys, and they are basically at the lowest setting. The height is ok but I hate that there is no more adjustment, I wouldnt have minded another 1/2 lower. So I bought these 2" drop spindles a while back. The idea is to install them, then be able to raise the keys back up so I have some room to fine tune.

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Going for an alignment soon. At 200k miles the balljoints/tie rods were original and surprisingly had no slack in them. The shocks were still functioning within reason also. The reason for replacement is the boot recently deteriorated and started throwing grease inside the wheel. I did notice the swaybar end links had slack in them so I will be ordering them soon.
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06 Foreman 500 - 29.5 OG Laws, SS212s, 35%, Warn 2.5k, HL^2", <2.5">, EPI, HMF
95 Fourtrax 300 - 27" Zillas, SS212s , Viper 3k, HL^2"
04 XR80 - Stock
07CRF50 - Stock
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