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Stuck brake drum

23K views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  Helmut 
#1 ·
I'm trying to adjust/repair the front brakes on my 2007 Recon. The adjusters are rusted and won't budge, so I wanted to take off the brake drum to get at them. I've taken the castle nut off, and even pulled out the bearing seal to where I can see the bearings. The brake drum will not budge - I've been beating on it with a prybar and 3lb sledge, but no movement at all.

Any tips on how to get this thing off?

I've attached a photo of the drum.
 

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#4 ·
if your shoes are not adjusted in ????..you can beat on that all month long...and it won't budge..not without breaking the hub, or shoes.
 
#5 ·
if you have a very old honda trx300 hub laying around ??..you can take a old c-clamp....take the threaded part of the c-clamp..cut it off..weld it to the front side of the old trx300 hub..now you have a hub puller !. added :..needs to be a rear axle hub !.
 
#6 ·
It won't do any good to spray the lugs with penetrating oil, because they're pressed into the hub and come off with the hub. I agree with Shadetree, you will probably need a hub puller to get that off, since you can't turn the adjusters to back off the brake shoes.
 
#7 ·
Yeah, I was wondering what good would come from spraying the lugs. The adjusters appear to be frozen all the way in - as in the previous owner never used the adjusters. When I have the front end off the ground, I can spin the wheels easily, and when I pull the front brake lever, it goes all the way in, and the brakes just start to grab. My guess is that the pads have worn down as far as they could without advancing the adjusters, so I don't think the issue is the pads holding up the drum. It seems that the bearing doesn't want to slide out on the shaft?

Just to make sure I understand how this is supposed to work, when I pull the drum off, the bearing should slide off the shaft while staying in the drum, correct?
 
#9 ·
Yeah, I was wondering what good would come from spraying the lugs. The adjusters appear to be frozen all the way in - as in the previous owner never used the adjusters. When I have the front end off the ground, I can spin the wheels easily, and when I pull the front brake lever, it goes all the way in, and the brakes just start to grab. My guess is that the pads have worn down as far as they could without advancing the adjusters, so I don't think the issue is the pads holding up the drum. It seems that the bearing doesn't want to slide out on the shaft?

Just to make sure I understand how this is supposed to work, when I pull the drum off, the bearing should slide off the shaft while staying in the drum, correct?
the hub bearing is froze on the spindle..you will need to buy or rent a hub puller..or make one like i said..the front bearing will come off with the hub..more than likely..the inside bearing in the hub...will stay on the spindle..if this happends..you will need a puller to get that off !..lol..and they are a pain too !..lol. oh..just so you know..if you don't beat the hub of straight..you will never get it to come off..it has to come off even..because the bearings are wedged on the spindle..this is what makes it so hard to remove the hub.
 
#8 ·
yes. the bearing should stay in the drum. i had the same problem a while ago. advanced auto parts has a hub puller kit you can rent. the rental is free, but you have to put down a $96 deposit. with the puller the drum came right off. i soaked the adjusters in pb blaster for a day or so and put them in a vice then slowly worked them loose. be carefull though as one side of the adjusters are left handed threaded and they will break turning them the wrong way. after you get them broke free, clean them up with a bench grinder, grease them really good and put them back together. after using the drum puller tool, i looked on ebay and found the one that i used out of the set i rented for about $35. it is a real handy tool to have around your shop. good luck
 
#10 · (Edited)
if your any good with a drill press and welder..and got some scrap metal laying around..take you a piece of metal..about 2 or 3 inches wide..and about 7 or 8 inches long..( long enough to reach across the go over the studs..drill two holes so the studs will go in them..then drill out a center hole big enough to weld a nut to the center..make sure you have a matching bolt and nut for the center...just weld the nut to the center..put the metal plate over two of the studs..with the lug nuts..tighten the metal plate on the studs..now start your bolt in the center nut..it should line up with the center of the spindle..this is a cheap hub puller..but if you make it right...it will work..you will need to have your plate metal at least 3/16 thick. added : you may need to extend the center part up..so you can clear the spindle .
 
#11 ·
X3, bearing is probably seized on the spindle. And yes, the bearing stays in the hub when you pull the hub. The front bearing will, anyway. Like Shadetree said, the rear bearing may stay on the spindle when you pull the hub and you will have to pull it off after you get the hub off.
 
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